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Forest Gate and Irish Independence

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From its mid nineteenth century development into a busy metropolitan suburb, Forest Gate has embraced a thriving Irish community (see here for details of early Irish settlements in the area and here for details of early Irish immigrant-inspired Catholic education in Forest Gate).

So, perhaps it comes as no surprise that there was considerable activity in the district campaigning for Irish independence before the creation and recognition of the Republic, in the 1920s.

Forest Gate featured in three fairly dramatic, and probably linked, events around the time of the creation of the Irish Free State in 1921. It is a fascinating tale, revealed here for the first time.

All we can do in this article is to set out the facts, and surmise on the connections and importance of the events.


Some background


The British general election of October 1918 gave Sinn Fein an overwhelming mandate for independence in Ireland, but the British government refused to acknowledge, or act upon this democratic expression. This was not a new turn of events for the Irish people: from 1870 - 1918 those demanding self-determination had held four-fifths of all Irish Parliamentary seats, but to no independence avail.

The Irish MPs elected in 1918 responded in January 1919 by making a Unilateral Declaration of Independence (UDI), and establishing the Dail Eireann in Dublin. London would not even negotiate with the body and 34 elected MPs were duly arrested. Finally, in September 1919, London declared the Dial "a dangerous body" and declared it outlawed.

The British government sent over 40,000 troops in to "quell" the Irish, and the Dail went underground. A bitter guerrilla war ensued.

What were the Irish, in Ireland and England to do?

This is where Forest Gate's role emerges.


1. Home of a publisher for "The Rebels"


The Dail responded by publishing an Address to Representatives of Foreign Nations in January 1921 (see photo of cover, below). It was a well produced and tightly argued 40 page foolscap publication, signed by all independence-supporting Irish MPs and was clearly aimed at winning at least a diplomatic war, in an effort to gain independence for their country.


Cover of the Address to
Representatives of Foreign Nations

And imprint, showing it to have been produced
 "On Irish Paper", at the Woodgrange Press,
 (98 Woodgrange Road) Forest Gate
Nothing unusual in this, except for the imprint, at the back of the publication - see above. It was printed by the Woodgrange Press on Woodgrange Road. Quite bizarre.


A 1920's photograph of the
 outside of the Woodgrange
 Press, 98 Woodgrange
 Road - now a mosque
Quite how extraordinary can be gauged by the fact that the owner of this press was Charles Ward, a prominent local Tory (see here for details). He was, in fact, the leading light of the Municipal Alliance, a front for the Conservative party on West Ham council. Charles can be found in the pages of the Stratford Express during the three years effectively covered by this story banging on endlessly about how the Council was wasting money on providing services for poor people - but not once did he mention Ireland in his perorations.


Charles Ward, prominent
 Forest Gate Tory, owner
of Woodgrange Press
 and publisher of
 Irish rebel literature
This was not an isolated printing job for Irish Rebels by the Woodgrange Press. Peter Berresford Ellis, a prominent Irish historian has noted in his history of the Irish Self Determination League (see below and footnote for more details):
In March 1919 the Irish Self Determination League of Great Britain (ISDL) came into being. Its Constitution and Rules were published by the Woodgrange Press, 1920, who also published at the same time a report for the First Annual Delegate Conference Agenda.

We can find no explanation for Ward's role in publishing the rebel material, other than a purely commercial one.  He was later made a freeman of the borough of West Ham.


2. A dedicated local Irish community


The ISDL, mentioned by Berresford, above, reached a maximum membership in Great Britain of almost 30,000, in 1921. While its offices in London (Shaftesbury Avenue) were the focus of police raids and general harassment, the organisation functioned with frequent public meetings.

In March 1921, its London District Committee launched a monthly journal, called the Irish Exile (not printed by the Woodgrange Press). It had a circulation of around 10,000 copies. 


Masthead of The Irish Exile
Reading it today, it bears all the hallmarks of many rather tedious and worthy political publications currently produced. But, each surviving edition (and the publication pattern was pretty sporadic) gave details of what the ISDL's 40 branches' were up to.

The Forest Gate branch's report, however, only appeared once: in the first edition (March 1921). It is reproduced below. It is a brief, but remarkable account. It was by far the most explicit of all the branch reports in terms of details of membership, activities and finances coming from any branch published in any on the nine editions of the paper.  

The branch boasted a frankly intense level of local activity and involvement, with a huge local membership of 324:


March 1921 edition of Irish Exile, with claims of a huge Forest Gate membership of ISDL
We can only surmise that the scale of activity described attracted police attention, and resulted in the branch, if not going under cover, in certainly being more publicly discrete about future events.

The branch showed its presence in the Irish Exile in much more benign ways in future editions of the paper. The December 1921 edition, for example, featured a photograph of a victorious women's sporting team! (see below).


Altogether less controversial activities reported
 from the Forest Gate branch of the ISDL, in
 the second edition of The Irish Exile
The only other specific Forest Gate mentions came in the February 1922 edition, when details were given of three Forest Gate people selling tickets for an Irish event, and two mentions of Irish Language classes being held in Earlham Grove.  These presumably took place in Earlham Hall, located opposite the home of Francis John Fitzgerald - see below.  This ties in neatly with Forest Gate's most intriguing part in Irish nationalist activity, at this time.


3. Forest Gate and gun running


Early in December 1921, Francis John Fitzgerald, a 38-year old chemist of 128 Earlham Grove, was arrested at Euston while seeing his sister off on the Irish Mail. Along with five others, he was charged with stealing and/or receiving a cache of machine guns and hand grenades, stolen from Irish Guards barracks at Chelsea and Windsor, earlier that month. 


128 Earlham Grove, home of Fitzgerald
 and location of the after gun theft "celebration"
The cache of arms was later discovered and amounted to 26 assorted guns (machine guns and rifles) and a quantity of bullets.

On his first court appearance Fitzgerald was released on bail, on sums of £500 for each of the two charges he faced.

It seems the theft was an inside job, with an Irish Guardsman also charged. Fitzgerald was said to have provided the cars (hired from Leytonstone taxi firms) in which the others went to Chelsea and Windsor and stole the guns.

After the raid at Windsor they all came back to Earlham Grove, via a West End drinking club, to celebrate.

The police found large sums of money and ISDL literature at the lodgings of one of the other accused. This was the moment when the Anglo-Irish Treaty (December 1921) was signed, ending British rule in 26 counties of Ireland. 

It seems likely that guns were being assembled in anticipation of  the outbreak of fighting between the republicans (who didn't accept the 26-county compromise adopted) and the new Irish government. 

Politics intervened, with the Home Secretary stepping in to obtain the release of two of the defendants (who proclaimed themselves political prisoners) and their return to Ireland. In early 1922 the British government released all Irish political prisoners, under agreements made within the Anglo-Irish Treaty.

Fitzgerald was, however, discharged for lack of direct evidence linking him with the theft.  

His "story" was bizarre, by any standards, and is worth airing.

Fitzgerald's case was that he was drinking in the Forty-Three Club, in Star Street (just off Edgware Road) between two and three in the morning immediately after the raids on the barracks. 

At this point the men (who, unbeknown to him, apparently, were the gun thieves) came in. He ordered a taxi, from a firm in Leytonstone that he knew and took the men back to Earlham Grove "for some bottles of wine". The men left his house, suitably refreshed, at 6 a.m. later that day.

According to press reports of the trial, on 24 December 1921 (see below for reproduction from Yorkshire Post and Leeds Intelligencer):


Yorkshire Post and Leeds Intelligencer,
 24 December 1921, with Fitzgerald's "defence"
Fitzgerald went on to say in the statement that it might seem strange conduct on his part associating with and giving refreshments to people who were strangers to him, but that it was a usual thing for him when he had a few drinks.
 The Magistrate decided that the evidence was not sufficient and discharged Fitzgerald.

Interestingly, although Fitzgerald's story was widely reported in the British press at the time; almost all references giving his full address, the Stratford Express (Forest Gate's only local newspaper, at the time) chose not to cover it, at all.

So, three quite extraordinary events occurred, closely linking Forest Gate with the ISDL and the struggles for Irish independence in 1921, with no apparent connection.

Except, Francis John Fitzgerald was the brother of Sinn Fein's propaganda chief, at the time (see below and the next blog on this site for very full details). So, how about this for a link between the three events?

Fitzgerald, a keen republican, was a major force in the extremely active Forest Gate ISDL branch, and popped round to his local printer - on Woodgrange Road - to get ISDL and other similar literature printed.

His activism was such that he was in some ways behind the gun raids on the barracks and by pre-arrangement to met the raiders at a club in the West End, to get a report back on the success or otherwise of the raid. Satisfied that all had gone well, he brought the raiders back to Forest Gate to celebrate?

Not a ridiculous theory, but there is no firm evidence to link the three Forest Gate episodes.


4. Curiouser and curiouser


Although the case against Fitzgerald was discharged in December 1921, when that against the others accused came to the Old Bailey in January 1922, his "innocence" was more than called into question by them.



Roche, the Irish Guards sergeant and the inside man on the arms raid, pleaded guilty and became a prosecution witness in the case. His evidence apparently was not made available to the police court that had discharged Fitzgerald in December 1921 (Portsmouth Evening News, 21/02/1922). 



He stated that Fitzgerald had provided 'an open touring car', which picked up Roche and the other three at Marble Arch, drove them to Windsor Barracks where they stole the guns, then back to the 43 Club, then on to Fitzgerald's employer's factory in Stratford, and then to Earlham Grove (Scotsman, 18/01/1922). The prosecution stated that the presumption was that the car which took them all back to Stratford was carrying the guns from the Windsor raid. 

Fitzgerald, who had always described as "a chemist",  was presumably an industrial one, working (as employee - as suggested here - or owner - see later) in one of Stratford's many chemical works. This claimed visit to the factory makes more intriguing the evidence provided by the police that the notebook owned by Hogan - another of the accused (who proclaimed himself an IRA commandant), included notes on chemicals which could be used to make explosives (Scotsman, 18/01/1922).

Roche's evidence also stated that Fitzgerald's brother was 'the propaganda agent of Sinn Fein' - see next blog for full details (Nottingham Evening Post, 28/01/1922), which makes more interesting an exchange which took place in the House of Commons on 14 February 1922. 

Winston Churchill was then Secretary for the Colonies in the government - and so responsible for answering parliamentary questions about Ireland. There was a series of questions about the role of a "Captain Fitzgerald" in transferring guns between British soldiers and the Provisional Government of Ireland, and whether he was acting on behalf of the Irish Provisional Government or the IRA. Churchill was uncharacteristically coy, or evasive, in his answers.The last which was particularly interesting:

Lieut-Colonel Croft: Had Captain Fitzgerald any thing to do, or was he suspected of having anything to do, with the stealing of machine-guns and ammunition from the barracks of the Guards?
Mr Churchill: How can I answer a question like that? 

It is not clear whether this "Captain Fitzgerald" was, in fact, the brother of Francis Fitzgerald of Earlham Grove, but it seems very likely.

On the one hand, Fitzgerald is a fairly common Irish name, and so it could just be a co-incidence, but on the other - we know that Francis Fitzgerald's brother was "a propaganda agent of Sinn Fein" and the question and answer quoted above point in the direction of an apparent connection at least being raised.

So, were questions raised in the House about Fitzgerald's brother? We assume we will never know for sure.

What we do know, however, was that his confirmed brother was a very interesting character - see the next blog.

Francis, himself, had clearly had a narrow escape from imprisonment with his bizarre court story in December 1921, but that did not curtail his rebel ardor or actions

An article in the Scotsman of 28 August 1922, entitled 'Arms for Ireland: Scotland Yard and Stratford Raid'described a raid by Special Branch detectives on a warehouse in Union Street Stratford. Their haul was boxes full of Hotchkiss machine guns. 

A copy of the article is reproduced below, but its contents are so extraordinary, that we transcribe them below the cutting:

The Scotsman,
28 August 1922

Arms for Ireland 

Scotland Yard and Stratford raid 
The surprise police raid in Union Street, Stratford, London, when a number of boxes containing machine guns were seized, was the result, a representative of the Press Association has been informed of certain information which came into the possession of the Special Branch of Scotland Yard a few days ago.

The information disclosed the fact that something of importance would be found at a certain address. Careful watch was kept on the place for a time in the hope that the person who had deposited the stores would visit it, but, as he did not do so, the police decided to enter. For some time past a close watch has been kept by the police on all ships leaving the London docks as it was known there was an intention to ship arms to Ireland.

No arrest has yet been made in connection with the discovery of the machine guns, but the police are following up their enquiries.

 Irishman's explanation

There was much discussion in Irish circles in London on Saturday as to the raid which took place at the warehouse in Stratford. Five Hotchkiss guns were found and taken away. Mr Francis W Fitzgerald who owns the warehouse concerned and lives in Earlham Grove is a brother of Mr Desmond Fitzgerald, Minister of Publicity to the Irish provisional Government.

Speaking to the Press Association representative on Saturday, Mr Fitzgerald denied that there was anything sinister about the finding of guns on the premises. He admitted he was keenly interested in Irish affairs, but was not active in any way.
The suggestion that the guns were intended for use in this country, he asserted firmly, was a ridiculous one. "I was simply storing the guns", he continued. "I did not buy them, these Hotchkiss guns were perfectly new and in their original cases. They belong to a city merchant who bought them under licence in an open way.

The guns cost roughly £1,000. I told him that in my opinion, the guns would be bought by the Irish Free State army, and he secured them on my recommendation. Lately all members of the armaments ring have been buying in their own makes of guns and revolvers surplus to military requirements with the object of getting everything in their hands.
Armament firms are opening offices in Ireland with a view to doing business with the Free State Army. The man who bought the five Hotchkiss guns was going to negotiate with a view to a deal with the Free State Government.
"The guns were loaded to a van in Charing Cross Road on Thursday evening. On Friday I saw detectives watching. I telephoned Scotland Yard and the guns were taken away. The whole thing was just a commercial deal and quite a legitimate proceeding."
So, another bizarre story from Fitzgerald, attempting to explain away a guns cache he was storing, that does not stack up with his previous activity.  As far as we can see the story ended there, and Fitzgerald wasn't prosecuted.

Quite what happened to Fitzgerald, we do not know.  He may deserve a footnote as a brave Irish patriot, if a full story of the ISDL is ever published.

Footnotes


1. Huge thanks to Mark Gorman for pointing us in the direction of information in this post, and digging around so assiduously.

2. Much of the information on the ISDL, who provide a central and linking theme to these Forest Gate activities, comes from a brief history of the group, written by Peter Berresford Ellis and can be found here

Interestingly, he ends his article with a plea for a fuller history to be written: "The story of the ISDL is an essential history waiting to be produced." Perhaps we will have to await its publication to see whether the three bits of the Forest Gate story are linked in the way we posit, above, and Fitzgerald can claim his role as an English-based Irish freedom fighter.


From Forest Gate to Irish Taoiseach, via the Easter rising

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This is a follow-up post to last week's account of Forest Gate and Irish Independence. It weaves together much of the romance associated with Irish nationalism, through the life of local lad, Desmond FitzGerald. 


Desmond FitzGerald
He attended what is now St Bonaventure's school in Forest Gate, became a committed nationalist, was active in Dublin's iconic O'Connell Street GPO building during the Irish rising of Easter 1916, was a minister in the first Irish government, fathered Garret Fitzgerald, Irish Taoiseach, in the 1980s, and, as he retired from politics, switched to poetry, as a friend and associate of of Ezra Pound and WB Yeats.

Born in Stratford on 13 February 1888, Desmond FitzGerald was the youngest son of a family that had arrived from Ireland during the 1860s. His father was a stonemason from Tipperary, and his mother was from Kerry. Desmond was born Thomas Joseph FitzGerald, but changed his own name during his mid-teens, as a schoolboy at West Ham Grammar School (This was the name of the modern St Bonaventure's school from 1908 - 1944), to reflect his Irish heritage. 

His older brother, William Francis Fitzgerald, was also born in Stratford. It is likely that he, too, changed his given names.  William is a hated name within the Irish nationalist community, because of its association with King Billy and the Battle of the Boyne.  


FitzGerald family home, 9 Reginald
 Road, Forest Gate, 1901
"William" appears to have dropped this first name, and adopt his middle name (Francis), as his preferred chosen name, when he became involved in the nationalist movement.  For a fuller account of his own extraordinary local activities, see our earlier post, referenced above.

There was also an older sister, Katharine. 

The 1901 census shows Thomas (later Desmond) junior living with his parents, sister and brother at 9 Reginald Road E7 (see photo, above).  Thomas’ elder brother’s name is in this census is given as William F. FitzGerald, aged 16 in 1901. He is described as a “commercial clerk”. By 1911 Thomas Fitzgerald senior had died, and the family was living at 8 Upton Avenue Forest Gate (see photo, below). 


8 Upton Avenue, family home in 1911,
 clearly an upgrade in accommodation
 from 1901, for an upwardly mobile family
Francis Fitzgerald (the former "William") was described as a “commercial traveller, druggist and chemists sundriest”. Desmond was described (under his birth name of Thomas) as a merchant’s clerk. Katharine was the headmistress of a Council school in West Ham. This was clearly an aspirational family, where the children of migrant parents had received a good education and were beginning middle class careers. 

They were also politically and culturally engaged. The Forest Gate Irish community in the early 1900s was supporting a lively and well-organised branch of the Gaelic League, dedicated to promoting Irish language and culture. 

Over 100 young men and women regularly attended weekly evening classes at Earlham Hall in Earlham Grove, and it is easy to imagine the FitzGeralds joining in the League’s activities. As last week's post showed, Francis, indeed, lived opposite Earlham Hall and the paper, the Irish Exile, advertised classes there in Irish culture and celebrated a sporting achievement by one of its women's teams.

In addition to the classes there were musical events and regular summer outings to Epping Forest.

Desmond travelled to Brittany at the age of 20 and was fluent in many languages. Upon returning to Britain, he joined a group of London poets, including Ezra Pound, called the "Imagists".

He first visited Ireland in 1910 and the following year married Mabel Washington McConnell - a nationalist and republican of Ulster Protestant descent - having met at a Gaelic League Irish language class. It is reported that Mabel became a Catholic on her marriage to Desmond. 

Their son, the future Irish Taoiseach, Garret (see below), later described his political objective as the creation of a pluralist Ireland, where the northern Protestants of his mother's family tradition and the southern Catholics of his father's could feel equally at home. A pluralism fostered in the streets of Forest Gate, no doubt!


A sketch of Desmond, as he was circa 1916

Mabel was born in Belfast, the daughter of a distillery manager. She went to Queen’s University where she joined the Gaelic League, and later moved to London, where she became  involved in radical feminist politics through membership of the Women’s Social and Political Union (WSPU - the formal name for what is commonly called the Suffragettes). 

She briefly became George Bernard Shaw’s secretary in 1909, but did not share his views about the relative importance of international socialism and Irish independence (Shaw was very dismissive of many Irish nationalist activities - including the Easter rising). Mabel was an ardent nationalist, and may have affected Desmond’s politics. 

Desmond first went to Ireland about 1910, and in 1913 became involved with the nationalist movement, joining the Irish Volunteers and becoming a local organiser. Desmond and Mabel FitzGerald moved to Irish-speaking west Kerry, where their knowledge of the Irish language was extended further. 

In January 1915, Desmond was expelled from county Kerry, having convinced the Royal Irish Constabulary that he was signalling to German submarines from his home on the western peninsula, six months after the outbreak of World War 1. 

His consequent move to Bray, county Wicklow, and the organisation of a branch of the Irish Volunteers was curtailed by his arrest and sentence to six months imprisonment for a speech discouraging recruitment to the British army.  

He and Mabel were at the GPO during the Easter 1916 Rising. Desmond was a staff captain and was in charge of the commissariat.  He features on the GPO Roll of Honour, for his involvement. He escaped the firing squad, but was court-martialled and sentenced to 20 years’ penal servitude, later commuted to 10. Desmond's son, Garret (see below), later described their role:
Both my parents were in the GPO in 1916. My mother was there for the first two days but after Patrick Pearse had sent her on a futile mission on the Tuesday to bring a flag to fly over Dublin Castle, which he wrongly thought had been captured, he told her to return home as he did not wish my elder brothers to lose both parents.

Dublin devastated by Easter rising, 1916
My father, who had just completed a 6 months sentence in Mountjoy for seditious speech, was there until the Friday, when he was ordered to bring the wounded to Jervis Street hospital, a block behind the GPO - from there, after many adventures, he got home to Bray, where he was later arrested.
Desmond was transferred to Dartmoor, then Maidstone jail, chained by the feet to Eamon de Valera, who, as an American citizen, had also been spared.

FitzGerald was released along with other 1916 prisoners in July 1917, but rearrested in 1918 and jailed for 10 months in Gloucester prison.

Clearly an intellectual at home in literary society, Fitzgerald had a play, The Saints, produced by Dublin's famous Abbey Theatre in 1919 and published books on poetry and the philosophy of politics.

At the election of December 1918, Sinn Fein swept Ireland, winning 73 out of 105 seats, with many of those elected “absent, imprisoned by foreigners”, as the roll call put it. FitzGerald was among them. After a campaign led by Mabel, he took the Dublin Pembroke constituency seat for Sinn Fein. 


University College, Dublin - location
 of the FitzGerald archives
FitzGerald’s was appointed Director of Publicity for Dail Eireann in 1919, and was also editor of the Irish Bulletin. His role was to counter British propaganda and use his contacts in London to forge channels to journalists from overseas and secure a republican narrative. 

He was again arrested, but released in time for the Truce.

He used literary contacts in London to make overtures to the foreign press, inspiring his friend Ezra Pound to write of him in Canto VII
The live man, out of lands and prisons, shakes the dry pods     Probes for old wills and friendships, and the big locust-casques. 
He was part of the negotiating team which signed the Anglo-Irish Treaty with Britain in December 1921 which established the Provisional Government.

FitzGerald supported the Treaty (Mabel was strongly opposed - wishing to see a full 32 county independent Ireland) and served first as Minister for Publicity and later Minister for External Affairs, at a time (August 1922) when Southern Ireland still existed as part of the UK.

He was a TD (MP) for Dublin County from 1922 to 1932 and then for Carlow County until 1937. He was a member of the Seanad (the senate) from 1938 until 1943, the year he retired from politics, aged 55.

FitzGerald drifted to the right politically, and was less active in politics after the defeat of the Cosgrave government to de Valera in 1932.  

Ed Vulliamy (see footnote, below) described him:
Even before [1932], though, the man whom Michael Collins had described as a “stiff shirt” was seen as over-intellectual by some of his cabinet colleagues. 
Throughout the 1930s, FitzGerald’s interests took him back to poetry and towards philosophy, markedly that of St Thomas Aquinas, and his views embraced a kind of mystic fascism, along with many of his kind including his friends Pound and Yeats. 

Desmond FitzGerald died on 9 April 1947, though his family continued to play a role in Irish politics. One of his sons, Garret Fitzgerald, became a prominent Irish politician between 1969 and 1987.
Garret FitzGerald - son of Forest Gate's Desmond
 and later Irish Prime Minister
Garret was elected to the Dail in 1969, and lead his party Fine Gael between 1977 and 1987 - holding the post of Taoiseach (Prime Minister) twice in the 1980s, when his principal opponent was Charlie Haughey. 

In a strange quirk of Irish politics, Garret's first post in government was as Minister of Foreign Affairs in Liam Cosgrave's government, fifty years after his own father, Desmond, became a Minister of Foreign Affairs in Cosgrave's father's Irish government!

As Taoiseach, responding to his own "mixed family" origins, he clashed with the Catholic church in Ireland, as he tried to loosen the links between church and state, with even the Pope being called to try and deflect his objective. 

Perhaps as controversially, he was very unsympathetic to the cause of the hunger strikers, at a key time of tension in Northern Ireland, but played a very key role in preparing the ground - against opposition from many sides - for what, eventually, was to become the Good Friday agreement..


On his death, in 2011, the Irish Times described him as 
An extraordinary Irishman who fashioned our future in so many ways.
And, Barrack Obama said this, of possibly Forest Gate's most famous grandson, he was:
Someone who believed in the power of education, someone who believed in the potential of youth, someone who believed in the potential of peace and who lived to see peace realised.
 Footnotes:

1. Huge thanks to Mark Gorman for great detective work in putting the bulk of this fascinating post together.

2. Thanks, also to E. Vulliamy, ‘My family’s link to the Easter Uprising’, (Observer, 27 March 2016), and University College Dublin archive: for much of the detail.

3. Other useful sources include: The papers of Desmond and Mabel Fitzgerald, University College Dublin archives, G. Bell,  Hesitant Comrades: the Irish revolution and the British Labour Movement (Pluto Press, 2016), has references to the IDSL. and  D. Fitzgerald, Rising: Memoirs of Desmond FitzGerald 1913 to Easter 1916 (London, 1968). Contains some of Desmond Fitzgerald'’s poems. The GPO Garrison Easter Week 1916: A biographical dictionary, Jimmy Wren pub 2015, obituaries in Irish Independent and Irish Press, 10 April 1947












A nod at our neighbours (3) - The Bridge House, Canning Town

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Regular readers will know that we have featured a number of spectacular music venues in Forest Gate (The Upper Cut and Lotus Club, both on Woodgrange Road and the Earlham Grove Music Academy) on this blog on a number of occasions.  This post strays a little further afield, to the sadly departed Bridge House pub/venue in Canning Town, whose heyday was a decade or so after Woodgrange Road's at their prime.

The large east end boozer this blog features is long gone - having mainly been replaced by the expanded Canning Town fly-over and associated road works. It sat on the banks of Bow Creek and was the first pub a traveller came across, leaving Tower Hamlets and entering Newham on the A13.

The pub had a long history as a drinking spot for local gas works' employees and ship builders from nearby sites, before Terry Murphy took it over in 1975.
This post is heavily dependent on Murphy's  book The Bridge House, Canning Town: memories of a legendary rock & roll hang out  (see footnote for details). Terry put together his story of the venue with the help of Newham author and resident, Brian Belton.

Terry Murphy, Bridge House
 landlord, impresario and book author
This blog is grateful for their work and presents Murphy's contemporary recollections of names that featured at the Bridge House. Not all of which, perhaps, have stood the test of time!

Like the Walker brothers at the Upper Cut and the Johnson brothers at Woodgrange Road's Lotus club, Terry Murphy came from a boxing tradition - indeed, he, himself was the first British boxer to fight "live" on Independent Television, when it started in 1955.  The "being able to look after yourself" that boxing gave these venue promoters did much to ensure there was little or no trouble in them from large crowds of alcohol fuelled young men and women who frequented them.

Murphy's family has become a fusion of boxing and show biz traditions - his son, Glen, was later to have a starring role in the London's Burning, television drama series. Other members of the family have played key roles in pop music, music promotion and record production.

The cavernous Bridge House was an ideal location. Its hall was licensed for just under 1,000 people, although at its peak as a venue in the late 1970's, almost double the number squeezed in. The pub became an important rehearsal venue. 

The logo that signified the Bridge
 House record label, based on
 representation of the pub
Murphy recalls: "One afternoon we had Manfred Mann's Earth Band on stage, Paul Young's Q Tips on the first floor and Remus Dawn Boulevard in the cellar."

Under Murphy's watchful eye, the venue promoted gigs and gave many well-known names in pop and rock their first, or an early chance. The pub launched its own moderately successful record label (Bridge House Records) and its memory survives through this web site.

Laurie O'Leary, former manager of the west end's legendary Speakeasy Club had this to say about the Bridge House:

U2, Dire Straits, Iron Maiden, Squeeze, Q-Tips, Tom Robinson, A Flock of Seagulls, Rory Gallagher, Remus Dawn Boulevard, Mick Jagger, Keith Richards, Huey Lewis, Eric Clapton, Charlie Watts, Chas n Dave and a host of others all have a history of appearances, both playing and watching their mates in this biggest and best of all London pubs.
Terry Murphy was always on the look-out for talent and wasn't afraid to experiment: "We moved through Heavy Rock, Funk, American West Coast music, to Blues, Punk, New Wave and Psychedelic", he reflects.

Below are some of his recollections of the life and times of many who featured at the Bridge House:

Iron Maiden: a good band. A really well behaved crowd too. Very heavy metal.  "I'll book them again". In fact, they went on to appear over 40 times at the Bridge House.

Iron Maiden at the Bridge House
U2: "A nice band, worked really hard. No chance of making it, not different enough. I might be wrong though (!), have to wait and see.  Yes, I would give them another gig". They made their debut at the venue in 1979, with a total audience of 18.

U2 played to an audience of 18 at
 the Bridge House in 1979:
 "no chance of making it"


Meanwhile, a small pub in
Limerick claims the first siting!

Murphy gave the north London pub band Dire Straits a gig and says their influence "changed the Bridge House from a Heavy Metal joint to a Blues-type pub".

Annie Lennox: was in a band called The Tourists before she became half of The Eurythmics, which had its first gig at the Bridge.

The Damned:"Played a few gigs for us (in 1977) - always quite good".

Alison Moyet:"We helped Alison, she sued us" (over a record release).

Steve Marriott:After The Small Faces and Humble Pie, he put together Blind Drunk and they played at the Bridge.  One night the police came to arrest him (on a fraud charge - which was later dropped).  They were persuaded to let him do the gig first, or risk a riot from the 800 or so who had turned up for it.

The Troggs:"Only attracted small, small audiences ... were loss makers".

Lindisfarne: - fought on stage - not a great success.

Nashville Teens:Really disastrous night.

Chas and Dave:"They played many times for us and were sensational". They recorded a live album at the Bridge.

Joe Brown: he had wired the pub as an electrician in the 1950's and returned in the 1970's to do a few gigs. His daughter, Sam, also played, accompanying Jools Holland, whose first band Squeeze, also played the Bridge a few times.

Billy Bragg:Terry Murphy says he gave Billy an early break - but the favour wasn't returned.

Tom Robinson Band:Murphy gave the band an early gig at the Bridge House, but was wary of the reception they may have received in the east end, with their explicitly gay messages, in the 1970's. He needn't have worried, Robinson recalls, in the book:
We had a storming show, and by the end of Glad to be Gay most people had gone: 'hey, brave stance, fair play to 'em' and applause-wise, the song was one of the high spots of the night.
Tom Robinson Band: "Bridge House
 one of the warmest, most responsive
 audiences" ever played to.
Ironically, I remember that night taught me exactly the same point the song was supposed to be making; don't pre-judge people or make ignorant assumptions about what you think they are going to be like. The Bridge House actually had one of the warmest, most responsive audiences TRB ever played to.

Blues scene and heard


Terry Murphy became close friends with Rory Gallagher - sharing an Irish heritage - and had him playing to crowds at the Bridge a time or two, to ecstatic audiences.

The inimitable Rory Gallagher on
 one of his flying visits to see his
 friend, Terry Murphy, at The Bridge House
Nine Below Zero:Still one of Britain's top jobbing blues bands - stared life at the Bridge, almost as an offshoot from Rory Gallagher's band, and were originally called the Stan Smith's Blues band.

Ex-Manfred Mannfront man, Paul Jones, would come along and blow his harp, and gradually put together what was to became the Blues Band at the venue. They became regulars at the Bridge House, and recorded a live album there.
Alexis Korner, Paul Jones
 and Gary Fletcher, jamming
 with the Blues Band
 at the Bridge House
They, in turn, attracted others to the venue, including the legendary Alexis Korner and band member Dave Kelly's sister, and blues chanteuse, Jo-Anne Kelly.

Forest Gate connection


Let Terry Murphy tell the story:

"John Bassett was another regular at the Bridge. He played guitar, wrote songs and managed bands. He also had his own music studio in Sebert Road, Forest Gate. We used his studio a lot. Depeche Mode did their first recordings at John's studio and Steve from Some Bizarre recorded there, as well.
A very youthful Depeche Mode, with
 Terry Murphy, about the time they recorded
 their first tracks - in Sebert Road!
Chas Thompson produced some great demos for Wasted Youth (a Bridge House favourite band, which included a young Murphy) at John's place. In fact, we used some of them as masters and released them. Chris captured their sound quite beautifully.
Site of John Bassett's studio, and
 launch pad of Depeche Mode, today
Footnote 1 When the Bridge House was CPO'd ready for the A 13 widening scheme in the late 1990's, it was clear that it would remain empty for a couple of years, before demolition and the roadworks begun. Newham Council arranged for it to be used as a hostel for homeless families during this period. The facility was operated by the Renewal Programme, under the management of Alan Partridge. The entertainment connection, however, did not prevail, as this was not the ex-presenter of Radio Norfolk.

Footnote 2 This site is grateful to the source of most of the content photographs, above, which we freely accept are copyright of Geoffrey Young and others mentioned, although not specified by individual photo, in the  Terence Murphy's book: The Bridge House, Canning Town: memories of a legendary rock & roll hangout, published 2007 by Pennant Publishing. This post offers only a glimpse of the wealth of stories and recollections contained within the highly recommended book, available at Newham Bookshop and other outlets.

Murdergate (1)

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We have recently come across a website dedicated to providing details of every reported murder in London since the time of Jack the Ripper (www.murdermap.co.uk). The authors accept it is a tall order, but they have made significant steps in tracking most murders committed over the last 15 years.  The reports on the site are based on court records and press accounts.

The site's search engine is pretty effective, and so we've tracked details of 18 Forest Gate murders, most of which have been solved, since 2003.  We present the findings, complete with photos of most of the victims and those convicted, over two posts.

The reports are pretty gruesome, but throw up a number of interesting conclusions.

Firstly, Forest Gate has averaged a murder and a half, per year since 2003, and it is somewhat reassuring that all but 3 of them has been "solved", in so far as the perpetrators have been found and sentenced. Two of the three "unsolved" cases have identified suspects, who are awaiting trial.

The UK national "average" murder rate is currently approximately one murder per 100,000 of the population. Forest Gate's population is approximately 45,000, suggesting that the local "murder rate" is approximately three times the national average.

Although this murder rate may seem high, for a relatively small district and population; the area, as such is not "dangerous". The headline figure of numbers disguises the fact that there are very few "random" murders, with victims being completely unknown or unrelated to the killer. 

So, disturbing as the rate is, the chances of being randomly murdered in the street, by a stray bullet, for example, is thankfully incredibly low (odds of more than one million to one).

Unsurprisingly, the most frequent explanation of the murders (five of the 18 cases examined) was a domestic dispute. The six people convicted of these five murders were sentenced to a total of 128 years imprisonment.

The most shocking thing about the other cases is the relatively inconsequential nature of many of the "motives" for the murders, and the heavy price paid by the perpetrators for what was often a moment's madness.

So, a row over a pinched bottom in a nightclub saw two people murdered and two convicted men receiving jail sentences of 68 years, in total. A row over a parking space resulted in the murder of two victims, with the convicted killer receiving a 26 year prison sentence. Two victims were killed because of drug debts.  Their killers received 15 years and an indefinite sentence in Broadmoor, respectively.

One victim was clearly "the wrong man"; his killer received 30 years.

Most shockingly, perhaps, was that one young man was killed as part of a robbery for his mobile phone and his killer received indefinite detention, and another young man was killed over an unpaid £15 debt.  His killer was given a 15 year sentence.

In this, the first of two posts, we provide details of the first (chronologically) nine of the area's 18 murders.

1 and 2. Amarjit Singh Tiwana and Rajinder Singh Tiwana : Date of murder:29 Aug 2003, solved (parking place)
Businessman Amarjit Singh Tiwana, 52, and his nephew Rajinder Singh Tiwana, 25, were shot dead with a sub-machine gun in broad daylight, as they  were visiting the Forest View Hotel at 227 Romford Road, which they jointly owned, on 29 August 2003.

But this wasn't a gangland killing. They were murdered over a trivial parking dispute. Unable to get past a Volkswagen Golf blocking entry the back of the hotel on Atherton Mews, they left their van across the end of the road.


Victims: Rajinder Singh Tiwana
 and Amarjit Singh Tiwana
When the driver of the Golf, 20 year-old Mohammed Ayub Khan, returned from Friday prayers at the mosque, he was unable to get out and began beeping his horn. After an argument with the Tiwanas he left the scene, only to return with two other men a few minutes later to attack the van.

When Amarjit and Rajinder ran out to confront the group they were gunned down using a Mac 10 machine pistol. The attack was witnessed by Amarjit's 26 year-old daughter Harjinder, who was able to identify Khan as the gunman.

By that time Khan had fled to Pakistan. He was placed on the Met's Most Wanted list in 2004 but was not arrested until he travelled to Bangladesh in August 2010. On 12 December 12, 2011, Khan was convicted of both murders at Woolwich Crown Court and sentenced to life imprisonment with a minimum of 26 years before parole.

Detectives are still appealing for help identifying the two other men involved and locating the murder weapon.


Convicted: Mohammed Ayub Khan
DI Yeats said: "We are still seeking two casually dressed Asian men wearing hooded tops in their late teens or early 20's. They ran away from the scene during the busy period after Friday prayers and turned right into Norwich Road, crossed Romford Road and continued south in Margery Park Road where they may have got into a parked vehicle".

3. Rizwan Darbar: Date of murder: 7 Oct 2007, solved (robbery)
On the afternoon of 7 October 2007, A-level Student Rizwan Darbar was hanging out in West Ham Park, listening to music on his friend's mobile phone. Kirkland Gayle approached the group and snatched the phone, adding: "I haven't seen you around before."

They asked for it back but a second youth, 19 year-old Anthony Maina, appeared from the bushes with a knife in his hand. He quickly jabbed Rizwan in the stomach, severing a major artery, after being told: 'Poke him.'


Victim: Rizwan Darbar
As the killers ran off with the phone, the victim screamed 'I've been juked' and bled to death.

Maina was arrested on suspicion of murder but released on police bail - and then took part in a robbery which left the Hackney Matalan store manager Jamie Simpson stabbed to death.

In August 2009, Maina, from Beckton, was convicted of the murder of Rizwan Darbar and locked up for a minimum of 14 years.


Anthony Maina, convicted of murdering
 Rizwan Darbar and of manslaughter
 in Matalan robbery
Gayle, from Stratford, was cleared of murder but convicted of manslaughter and robbery and jailed for eight years.

Maina was later convicted of manslaughter for his role in the Matalan robbery and given an indefinite prison sentence in March 2010.

4. Karl Gbedemah: Date of murder:1 Aug 2008, unsolved (unknown cause)
Karl Gbedemah, 47, was killed in the head by a stray bullet (in a moment of supreme irony) as he stood near the Live and Let Live on Romford Road in the early hours of 1 August  2008.

It is thought the murder weapon, a converted Baikal pistol, was fired during a clash between two groups of men in nearby Sprowston Road.

Mr Gbedemah, known as ''Kudjo'', was taken to hospital at 3.45pm but was pronounced dead less than an hour later.

DJ Emmanuel Sakyi, 22, was charged with murder and stood trial at Woolwich Crown Court but claimed he left the pub before the shooting.

The jury cleared him of all charges in June 2010.

5. Michael Wright: Date of murder:19 Feb 2009, solved (argument between associates)
Student Michael Wright, 17, was stabbed to death when he asked his friend to pay him back £15. He had lent 16 year-old Bradley Walters-Stewart the cash to pay the entrance fee to a nightclub six days earlier.

In the days before his death he made a series of visits to Mr Walters-Stewart's home in Forest Gate, At 10pm on 19 February he knocked at the house again but got no answer and kicked the door in frustration.


Victim: Michael Wright
After contacting him by phone, Michael managed to arrange a meeting with his friend - known as M-kid - outside Maryland train station in Stratford. During the confrontation, Walter-Stewart was heard shouting: "Who the fuck do you think you are coming to my house like that?".

He then stabbed Michael in the abdomen with a knife he had brought from his kitchen. Witnesses heard the victim plead 'don't shank me' as Walters-Stewart pulled out the knife.


Bradley Walters-Stewart - convicted of murder
 and sentenced to a minimum of 14 years
The killer then walked away 'slowly and casually' as passers-by rushed to the victim's aid. Police found Walters-Stewart hiding in the loft of his mum's flat two days later.

During the Old Bailey trial he claimed Michael fell on to the knife when the two boys started fighting in the street. He was convicted of murder at the Old Bailey and sentenced to detention for life in June 2009 and ordered to serve a minimum of 14 years behind bars.

6. Syed Shazad Abbass: Date of murder:7 Sept 2009, solved (drugs debt)
Syed Shazad Abbass was kidnapped and tortured over a suspected drugs debt on 7 September 2009. He was bundled into an Audi A3 outside his home in Earlham Grove, Forest Gate at around 3.30am.

Mr Abbass, who ran a window fitting business and traded in second hand cars, was found dressed only in his boxer shorts on a pavement in Flanders Road, East Ham, east London, later that morning.

He was taken to hospital with a brain haemorrhage but was pronounced dead the next day. He had also lost or broken several teeth, suffered a broken nose and eye socket, a lighter burn to his thigh and a series of small puncture wounds across his back.

At 6.15am police were called to Royston Gardens in Ilford, where they found the victim's burnt out Audi. A search of Mr Abbass' second car, a Honda, revealed crack cocaine and heroin in a door panel.

Blaize Lunkulu, of Weymarks, Weir Hall Road, Tottenham, and Vikar Khan, of St Stephen's Close, Walthamstow, were originally charged with murder. They pleaded guilty to manslaughter, conspiracy to kidnap and pervert the course of justice on 2 August 2010.

Blaize Lunkulu - imprisoned for
public protection, minimum of six years

On 27 October 2010 Lunkulu was sentenced to imprisonment for public protection with a minimum of six years and four months before parole and Khan, who claimed he did not take part in the violence after the initial abduction, was sentenced to nine years imprisonment.

Judge Stephen Kramer QC said: 'The circumstances of the offences are truly horrific. 'You and the deceased were involved in the drugs scene. He apparently owed drugs and cash. That was the start of the violence, humiliation and torture of the deceased. 'You were then both involved in trying to destroy evidence.'

7. Mahmood Jama: Date of murder:6 Jan 2010, solved (drugs related)
Mahmood Jama, 21, was shot at the Whyteville House block of flats in Upton Lane at around 1am on 6 January 2010.

Mr Jama, a British citizen born in Somalia and living at Boundary Road, Plaistow, died two hours later in hospital of a shotgun wound to the chest.


Victim: Mahmood Jama
The Old Bailey heard he had been involved in a feud with a teenage drug dealer in the run up to the shooting.

Witnesses said the gun went off as the two men tussled over the weapon on the first floor lift bay.

On April 19, 2011, Mohamed Farah Ali, 19, was convicted of manslaughter. Two months later he was locked up indefinitely at Broadmoor Hospital under sections 37 and 41 of the Mental Health Act.

8 and 9. Patrick Ford and  Eugene Brown: Date of murder:29 May 2010, solved (argument in club)
Two men were shot dead outside the now defunct Sugar Lounge nightclub, Katherine Road, on the morning of 29 May 2010.

The first victim, Patrick Ford, 36, died at the scene after being shot in the chest in Katherine Road. His friend Eugene Brown, 27, died in hospital from a bullet wound to the head five weeks later on July 7.



Victims: Patrick Ford and Eugene Brown

The gunman, Michael Smith, was also shot in the head, shoulder and buttock after being chased through the street by Kevin Powell but survived. All three shootings were captured on CCTV footage.

Two men were charged with both murders: Michael Smith, 27, of Beaconsfield Road, Canning Town, east London, and Nana Oppong, 30, of West Road, Stratford, east London. Kevin Powell, 34, of Harlesden Road, Willesden, was charged with attempted murder.

All three first went on trial at the Old Bailey on 22 March 2011. The prosecution case was that the incident started when Eugene Brown fired four shots into the ceiling of the club after a man groped his girlfriend's buttocks.


Convicted: Michael Smith.
Sentenced to a minimum of 34 years
Oppong, who was celebrating his 30th birthday that night, was said to have handed a gun to Smith and pointed out Mr Brown outside the club. Smith opened fire, shooting Mr Brown in the back of the head. Mr Ford, who was trying to take away Mr Brown's gun, was hit in the chest by a stray bullet and died of a fatal injury to his heart.

Powell then grabbed Mr Ford's gun and chased Mr Smith down the road, repeatedly opening fire. Smith managed to get into a car containing Oppong and was taken to hospital
.
Smith claimed he opened fire in self defence thinking Mr Brown was still armed, Oppong denied involvement in the murder and Mr Powell also claimed he acted in self defence.


Convicted: Kevin Powell.
Sentenced to 34 years
In June 2011 Smith was convicted of two counts of murder. The jury were unable to reach verdicts on Oppong and Powell and a retrial began on 9 May 2012.

The second jury convicted Powell of attempted murder but were unable to reach verdicts on Oppong. On September 21 the prosecution announced they would not seek a third trial and Oppong was formally found not guilty of the two murder charges. He was jailed for two years for perverting the course of justice by lying to police.

Smith was jailed for life with a minimum of 34 years before parole and Powell was sentenced to 34 years imprisonment.

Footnote:

The Murder map website (here) is run by volunteers and receives no official funding. They would be grateful for any donations, to keep their project active. Details can be found on the site.  We express our thanks to them for their meticulous work, which has enabled this post to be written.

An Upton introduction

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This website has focused almost exclusively on Forest Gate north of Romford Road and neglected the fascinating history of the part of E7 located south of that main road - SoRo, as the hipsters would have it - Upton.

This post is an introductory taster to Upton life. Future, occasionally
published, blogs will cover, in detail , many of the fascinating people and places that have shaped its past and present. We are indebted to a great local history website, Hidden London (here), for prompting this article.

Upton was first recorded in 1203 as Hupinton, then in 1290 as Hopton and in 1485 as Upton. The name derives from the Old English words Upp and tun, meaning higher farmstead. There is a slight rise in the otherwise low-lying area, which was once marshy terrain.

Chapman and Andre's map, 1777 -
showing Upton as a significant settlement
By the 17th century Upton had become a prosperous hamlet. It was within easy coaching distance of the City of London, and so provided a rural retreat for some of London's wealthy elite. The ward of Upton had 25 dwellings in 1670. Ten of these houses had at least five hearths (generally considered a minimum necessary for genteel living) - a very high proportion for the era.

One of the houses in existence at the time was an already ancient timber-framed structure, said to have begun life as Henry VIII's Forest Gate hunting lodge, what is now the dilapidated Old Spotted Dog public house (see here for a full history of the building).

The Dog is the oldest non-ecclesiastical building in Newham. It is on English Heritage's "at risk" register, and is now in the hands of new owners (see above link for details). The grounds surrounding the pub house one of England's most famous non-league football clubs - Clapton FC (see here and here for details).


1908 postcard of The Old Spotted Dog,
 in better days for the pub
Amateur cup winning photo of Clapton FC,
 1909. Walter Tull, second from right, front row
Another house assessed for the Hearth Tax in 1670 was Rooke (or Rookes) Hall, which dated from the mid 16th century and was later renamed Upton House. In 1762 Admiral John Elliot sold Upton House to Dr John Fothergill, who enlarged the grounds on which he built greenhouses and populated them with rare and exotic botanical species.


Dr John Fothergill - 1712 - 1780

Dr Fothergill was one of as number of Quakers to settle into Upton in and around this time; many of whom were linked by marriage with the Pelly family - West Ham's then principal landowners.


Prison reformer, Elizabeth Fry, who
 lived in The Cedars, in the
 grounds of  Ham House
Upton House was renamed Ham House in the late 1780's, which helped avoid potential confusion with a different Upton House, that by then stood on Upton Lane, at what is now the corner of Lancaster Road. Joseph Lister, who pioneered antiseptic surgery, was born at Upton House, which is shown in the watercolour, below.


Upton House - birthplace of Joseph Lister
- later site of St Peter's vicarage, now site
 of Joseph Lister Court, Upton Lane

Joseph Lister - 1827 - 1912

The Quaker banker and philanthropist, Samuel Gurney, bought Ham House in 1812. He stayed there for the rest of his life - and members of his family stayed there until its demolition.

Samuel Gurney's older sister, the prison reformer, Elizabeth Fry, lived in a house on the edge of the estate from 1829 to 1844. In 1842 she entertained Frederick William IV of Prussia there (after whom the Edward VII pub in Stratford was originally named).


Samuel Gurney - prominent banker,
 philanthropist and Upton dweller
Ham House was demolished in 1872 and two years later its grounds were transformed into West Ham Park. Since its inception, the 77 acre park has been owned and managed by the City of London Corporation. The site of Ham House is marked by a cairn of stones, near the main entrance to the park.


All that remains of Ham House, a cairn
 consisting of debris from it, located on the
 site of the house, in West Ham Park
West Ham Park, 1904
James Thorne in his 1876 book, Handbook of the Environs of London wrote "The pretty rural hamlet of Upton is a little more than a mile north-west of West Ham church". No sooner had these words been penned the area became engulfed by the rapid housing development that lead to the emergence of Forest Gate as a sizable London suburb; providing terraced housing for the factory workers of the rapidly expanding borough of West Ham.

Having once been a country retreat for prosperous eighteenth century Quakers, late nineteenth century Upton became a significant focus for East London's rapidly growing Irish Catholic community. The area's surviving Roman Catholic institutions include: St Angela's (see here), St Bonaventure's and St Antony's schools and the church of St Antony of Padua.


1953 ariel view of St Angela's school
One of the more prominent surviving buildings in the Upton area is the Red House, on the corner of Upton Lane and Upton Avenue. We have written extensively about the house here. It began life in the 18th century as the home of a Dutch merchant.


St Antony's church
It became the home of Britain's most prominent Trade Union banner manufacturer - George Tutill (see here) and was extensively remodelled in the 1880's. It later became a Catholic social club, and despite some recently externally funded refurbishment of its exterior, its interior is in a sorry state, today.


The Red House, Upton Lane - now social club
The Anglican church of St Peter's was erected in the grounds of Upton House in 1893, and the house, itself became the vicarage, for a while. That church's parish was merged with Emmanuel, on the corner of Romford Road in 1962.

The church, itself, was later demolished and the vicarage (Upton House) was pulled down in 1967-8 to be replaced by the bland Joseph Lister Court development of flats.

Megg's Almshouses were built at the same time as St Peter's church, in 1893, facing West Ham Park, and remain today as sheltered accommodation for elderly people (see here, for details).

Upton Lane board school opened in 1894, at the corner of Doris Road, but was destroyed by bombing during World War 11. In 1959 the site was used for the Stratford grammar school, which subsequently became the Stratford School Academy, which itself has recently been rebuilt.


Upton Road school, bombed 13 August 1944
A few older houses in the district have been demolished in the post-war era, along with some bomb damaged premises, and replaced with blocks of low rise flats. Since then, Upton's built environment has changed very little, except for the upgrading of some of the schools within it.

The street where you live (6): Capel Road

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This is the sixth in an occasional series of articles by Forest Gate resident, Peter Williams, who specialises in Newham housing, maps and local history. In each he looks, in detail, at the history of particular streets in Forest Gate.

Peter has complemented his own knowledge by accessing the increasingly digitised national newspapers' collection - which can be found here- and has added extracts from this that refer specifically to Capel Road. As the footnote makes clear, he is also very grateful for the co-operation of some of the residents of Capel Road in preparing this piece - most notably, fellow local historian, Mark Gorman.

Capel Road is not the original name of this street. It was originally known as Duncans Road, after a local businessman, based a little to the north. He was a stonemason, and occupied a building now under the Alexandra Lake. Here is a reference to the road from 1869:


Chelmsford Chronicle - 1 January 1869
In the 1870s it was renamed Capel Road - Capel being a name strongly associated with Norfolk, the original home of several prominent Forest Gate Quaker families, notably the Gurneys, who owned the land to the south of the newly named road (see various previous posts for details - by using the search engine - of the Gurney influence on Forest Gate). 

It is very likely at his time that Capel Road had the characteristics of a very rural track on the edge of the Epping Forest land, with a few houses. In 1878 an Act of Parliament was passed preserving the Forest from development.

The extract below, from the mid 1890's, reports an East Ham Council meeting about the adoption of Capel Road by the council. Until then its maintenance was the responsibility of the householders, emphasising the country feel of the area till the turn of the century.


Chelmsford Chronicle - 8 May 1896
At this period a simple numbering system for the houses being newly built probably did not exist, and buildings often has names not numbers. Examples in the records are:

Forest Terrace/The Ferns/Lothian Villas/Proctor Villas/Elm Cottage/The Limes – this last is shown:


Chelmsford Chronicle - 14 Jul 1893

The surviving plaque on The Limes,
 105 Capel Road. It is quite a small
 property to require a domestic servant

The development of the modern road

Capel Road stretches from Woodford Road in the west all the way to Forest Drive, 1.5kms to the east. It forms the most northerly road in what is now the borough of Newham. Until 1965 the western end up to Ridley Road junction was in West Ham Borough, and the rest in East Ham.

Just to the north was Wanstead and Woodford Urban District council (UDC, now Redbridge LBC). The current borough boundary between Newham and Redbridge coincides with the northern curb line of the road. This changed in the 1990's when the Boundary Commission rationalised the historic boundary.

A small area of Wanstead flats west of Ridley Road used to be in West Ham and then Newham. Hence Angell or Bandstand Pond at the corner of Woodford Road was in West Ham historically; the boundary line cutting Centre Road just north of 113 Woodford Rd. 

Indeed, both the bandstand and the pond were constructed by West Ham council in 1897-1898. This is shown clearly on the 1898 OS map below (see “Co and Parly Boro Bdy”). Since 1965 Waltham Forest has been the local authority west of Centre Road and north of Sidney Road.

To this day there are boundary disputes between the various authorities, for example, on who should clear up fly-tips on the edge of the Flats. Newham is responsible up to the curb line in Capel Road; Redbridge for what is on the grass but by convention Newham does pick up fly-tips which are not in Newham. 

The Corporation of London (CoL) is the landowner, not the local authority with the cleansing duty under the Environmental Protection Act, but the CoL can, and does, prosecute people for flytipping on its land. Newham has no legal authority north of the curb line.

Capel Road is a boundary in a number of senses, as it more or less marks the boundary between the forest land (Epping or Lower Forest) and the cultivated land to the south. This is shown in the old maps where you can see areas of cultivation to the south and the “waste” as it was known to the north. The forest land, though notably, not covered in trees (it never, knowingly, was):


Ordnance Survey OS Map 1863

This maps needs careful interpretation as the sloping line across it does not exactly coincide with the modern line of Capel Road. The modern road lies slightly to the south and this is most clearly shown if you follow Chestnut Avenue north (the road with a slight dog-leg over the left).

What is now wide Chestnut Avenue, on the modern map hits Capel Road by the Chestnut children’s nursery. On this 1863 map it does not; there are fields there. (See here, for Peter's article on this history of Chestnut Avenue).


Map from atlas published by Geo. Philip
 - dated probably just before 1880
This map was recently for sale on Ebay (June 2016) and is a fascinating addition to our knowledge. There are several things to note here. The most obvious one is that Capel Road is in two distinct halves, with the cemetery appearing to reach all the way up to the Flats. 

The role of the Cemetery Company in the development of the area is discussed below. After this map was drawn they must have decided to release land along their northern boundary for development, no doubt very profitably.

The other key finding is the presence of fields to the north of Capel Road at the top of Chestnut Avenue. These fields have great historical significance because it is here in the early 1870's that the battle to save Epping Forest and in particular Wanstead Flats, was fought out.

The high point of the campaign was the summer of 1871, when Lord Cowley (who had inherited the Wanstead House estate from his cousin, the notorious William Wellesley-Pole) enclosed land on Wanstead Flats -the current Aldersbrook estate, then part of the Flats.

A public meeting was called, to which thousands of east Londoners responded - some estimated the crowd at 30,000. Despite calls for a peaceful demonstration, late in the evening, some of the crowd broke fences – not Cowley’s, but those surrounding the fields near Chestnut Avenue.

The police -who had left the Flats earlier, thinking the demonstration was over - found only a pile of matchwood, which some in the crowd suggested they might like to guard. Just one arrest was made, but the owner of the fences, a local businessman called John Gladding, was reluctant to prosecute and asked for the lightest possible sentence. 

Since his son was a prominent member of the anti-enclosure campaign in east London, he may have felt somewhat embarrassed. 


These fields were eventually
 returned to Epping Forest, and
 form part of the Flats, today
Modern Capel Road is also characterised by its varying width, from very wide at the western end to much narrower as you move east. This was governed by the rather fluid boundary in the Victorian period between forest land and cultivated land. Lorne Road had commercial greenhouses well into the 1890's (these are marked in the map, below), after the construction of the first short terraces; and Ridley Road was associated with watercress beds.


OS map, 1895. This section highlights the junction
 of Capel Road with Lorne Road and Tylney Roads
The striking thing is the presence of commercial greenhouses. These are in Lorne Rd and between Tylney and Ridley Roads. Development of the terraces is also incomplete, despite this map being drawn some 10-15 years after the first houses were built in the area.


OS map, 1898. Note: on this map, the terraces to
 the north  of Manor Park Cemetery are still not
 complete. There are gaps of some of these
 were only filled in the very late 19th century,
 or even early 20th century


East London Observer - 20 April 1878
The Manor Park Cemetery Co. bought up most of the former agricultural land between Manor Park station and Forest Gate station in c.1870 from the British Land Co. who in turn has bought it from Samuel Gurney the Quaker, formerly known as the Hamfrith estate (see here, for details). They used about half for their cemetery and the rest they sold off, or leased in small plots, to speculative builders.

Builders often built just half a dozen houses, not whole roads, which is why many terraces have breaks in them. Terraced houses are in slightly differing styles; some are in fact semi detached or detached and this wide variety of styles can be seen in Capel Road. Reading the surviving date plaques on houses can be an interesting study.

See here for more on the process of development of housing in this area. Land was progressively sold off in plots by the Manor Park Cemetery Co. (who had been refused permission for a cemetery covering the whole area between Forest Gate and Manor Park).

Development was patchy, probably because the developers tended to be local residents, who would buy one or several plots, then amass enough capital to build, and because the cemetery company required houses to be worth no less than £300 - a substantial sum for Forest Gate houses at that time.

Many resorted to loans from one of several building societies operating locally. For example, the plots for nos. 151 and 152 Capel Road were bought in 1880, but building only commenced in 1886. The developer was a retired sailmaker living at Clifton Villas, Capel Road. A Bristolian, he named the houses Bristol and Bath Villas.


The dated plaque on 152 Capel Road - 1887
Postcard images below  from the early 20th century show the extreme western end of Capel Road and the pond next to what was the bandstand designed by Lewis Angell, borough engineer the West Ham. 

The pond was made in c 1897 to collect surface water from the Flats during storms, to prevent flooding in cellars of the Broadway (ie Woodford Rd/Woodgrange Rd) and when rains ceased water would drain away through a sluice conducted for that purpose.

To quote from a letter to a newspaper dated 24 September 1897 regarding Angell Pond:
Considerable annoyance is caused by the bodies of dogs and cats which end their existence here, or else are thrown in after they are dead, and are then allowed to decompose and become a most disgusting nuisance.
Tradesmen and others drove their horses and carts in and cleaned up – “the putrid materials...are worse than sewage”. The correspondent suggested turning the lake into a model yacht pond, of interest to Forest Gate residents, “some of whom possess some exceptionally fine model yachts”.

And on 4 March 1898 W.F. Street of 44 Capel Road wrote to ask if the articles regarding Capel Road are because the writer “ has any feeling against the residents of this road?” Not only Capel Road residents, but those of other roads had complained about Angell Pond.

Angell Pond, early 20th century.
Barwick Road is in the background.
 Note litter on edge of the pond
- so, clearly not just a modern problem
On the corner of Barwick Road and Capel Road, in the photo above, there is a shop premises visible that has now been converted to flats – see photo, immediately below.






This is the view looking east from Woodford Road
 along Capel Road over Angell Pond in the early
 1900s. Note the rowing or pedalo boats for hire
 and the West Ham bandstand. You can see that this
 is like a mini resort for Sunday afternoon leisure.
This area was known as Monkey Parade at this time.
There are planted avenues of plane trees shown in the photo which survive to this day. See the Chestnut Avenue article, referred to above, for details. To quote from a 1911 West Ham council report proposing "repairs round Angell Pond, and construction of a pathway between Woodford Road and Sidney Road to be carried out by unemployed men."


OS map, 1914
It is clear from this map, that by the outbreak of the First World War Capel Road is more or less complete in the form we know it now. There were Zeppelin attacks immediately to the north and west, but little or no damage was done to Capel Rd, itself.

The Second World War brought much greater changes. The photo below was taken by the RAF on 7 August 1944. Angell Pond is in the top left hand corner; the Golden Fleece bottom right hand. Capel Road angles diagonally across the image, with the Alexandra or Sandhills pond on the right hand edge (Sandhills was dug in Edwardian times as a job creation scheme by East Ham council). Manor Park cemetery is visible at the bottom. The tiny squares that cover Wanstead Flats along Capel Road are allotments. There were several hundred on the flats by 1944, in various clusters.



After this picture was taken prefabs were built. Below is a 1950's street directory to the eastern end near the Golden Fleece. You can see very clearly the large East Ham Council prefabs estate that was build on the flats in late 1944 and early 1945. They were built partly by Italian prisoners of War, who were camped on the Flats. The roads were named after the heads of the RAF, army and navy at the time.

For more on the prefabs see here





Below is a photo of Cunningham Gardens, Capel Rd in the 1950's. These prefabs were only demolished in the early 1960's, when the current sports pitches were laid out. There was fencing along the eastern end of Capel Road round the prefab estate which some current residents remember.


Cunningham Gardens,
Capel Road, 1950's
Prefabs survived elsewhere in Newham, right up to the late 1980's; the last being in Miers Close, East Ham. Though originally designated as temporary housing for bombed out families, intended to last a few years, they were immensely popular, as they were of such a high standard compared with where people came from, often shared houses with no bathroom and outside toilet.

The East Ham prefabs were especially good quality with gardens - some cherry trees on Capel Road survive from those gardens – outside 90-100, for example. The prefabs had modern appliances in the kitchen and a full bathroom with plumbed in hot water, previously unheard of luxuries for many
of their tenants.

Newham Housing department had some difficulty demolishing some of them in the 1980s because of their popularity - a bungalow with a garden was hard to match for the rehousing officers.

West Ham Council also had prefabs on Capel Road, but they were of a different design and of lower quality. They were located at the end of Latimer and Cranmer Roads and were demolished prior to 1960.


A history of some of the houses on the road


Many houses in Capel Road have been, not surprisingly, occupied by professional people as this sample shows:  - number of house, name of occupant, profession and year of occupancy.


42 - Robert McNeil - accountant - 1920

59 - HH Robins - chemist - 1897

79 - AW Mera - entomologist - 1903

95 - Harold H Leadbetter - chemist - 1903

105 - JL Francis - chemist - 1931

109 - W Tomlinson - building contractor - 1904

109 - ???? - dentist - 1945

112 - was a B&B - 1931

123 - George Price Trasler - chemist - 1916

134 - Ernest F Ferry - architect - 1912

139 - Miss MF Shillingforth - historian - 1921

141 - Edward Walter - chemist - 1920
142 - ??? - organ teacher - 1907
143 - John Morgan - publisher - 1927
162 - PH Clements - shipbuilder - 1919
196 - R Fanshaw - antiquarian book dealer

This list may confuse "chemist" in the sense of pharmacist and people who work in chemical engineering. The preponderance of chemical engineers may indicate the importance of that industry around Stratford at that period – indeed it was known as “stinky Stratford”, because there were so many chemical and similar factories.

By the mid 1960's Newham was building a number of tower blocks, heavily subsidised by central government. One of these is Capel Point at the western end of the road. The block is now part of a Private Finance Initiative contract (the notorious PFIs) - where Newham let a 25 year contract in 2009 to Swan Housing Association and a construction partner, Higgins. 

The tenants remain as council tenants, but all services are provided by Swan. The block was refurbished a couple of years ago with money levered in via the private sector and government credits, for what was called the Decent Homes programme.


Capel Point, part of the one thousand
 homes Forest Gate PFI contract

The same view, 1907 - the building that was on
 the Capel Point site at that time looks like quite
 a grand house. On the right - on Woodford Road

 - is an awning of a shop, now occupied by 
Concept Brickwork, the white building above.
Next to Capel Point there was a small petrol station until about 10 years ago run by the Kuwait or Q8 Oil Company. It was demolished and private houses built on the site.


New houses on the site of the petrol station
 - note the small green posts in the pavement
 that survive from the garage.

The same corner in 1911 - the sign reads
 Banes, Manor Farm Dairy. Forest Side is right


It would have been around this point that Capel Road hosted some of its more unsavoury events.  It became an outdoor meeting point for the British Union of Fascists, during the 1930's, and occasionally provided a ranting spot for BUF leader Oswald Mosley (see here for details).

In September 1937, 20 residents of Capel Road organised a petition to prohibit the BUF's regular Sunday meetings on the Flats, "as they were a nuisance and caused annoyance to householders living within hearing distance" from 8pm - 10pm, having reserved their speaking pitch on the corner of the Flats at 4pm or 5pm in the afternoon. The residents were unhappy that the police seemed to turn a blind eye to the nuisance caused by the open air meetings.

Local boy, actor and film producer, Bryan Forbes (see here), who was born in Cranmer Road, recalls one of Mosley's visits to the area in his youth, in his autobiography:
Mosley came to Wanstead Flats some Sunday evenings.  He came in a sealed truck with a wire cage let into the roof. Surrounded by a black garland of close-cropped, scrubbed and wax-like bodyguards. He stood within the cage and screeched his British upper class impression of Streicher to an audience that mostly consisted of children, derelicts and the police.
25 Capel Road was many years ago used by the Cuban ambassador as a residence and later became the home of Mark Stephens CBE, the celebrity lawyer, until he moved to Wanstead. He famously displayed a piece of modern art in the first floor window, an upside down life-size naked figure. Mark was chair of Governors at University of East London. It was said the house had an orchard out the back.


25 Capel Road, a tall one-off house, with
 a high parapet and an interesting history


It is clear from this 1906 postcard that 25 Capel
 Rd once stood as the centre piece to an imposing
 terrace, with the whole wing on the left now gone,
 presumably as a result of bombing in the Second World
 War. On the extreme right of this picture is the angled
 roof of what was an off licence that closed in
 1990s in Barwick Rd
The modern houses next to 25 were built by Newham Council in the 1980's on a vacant plot caused by that bomb damage, to a design by one of the council’s own architects Dave Dennis. They were among the last council houses built directly by Newham Council under something called the “small sites programme”.


This fine detached former doctor’s house
 occupies the corner of Latimer Road
 and Capel Road. There was a side annex
 that formed the consulting room.

The house below used to be occupied by professional dog walkers. It achieved notoriety in 2006 when Maggie May, the dog belonging to the singer/celebrity Lily Allen, was opportunistically kidnapped (dognapped?) from outside. The owner of the business had the dog in his van, right outside, but it was stolen and £5,000 ransom paid by the singer shortly afterwards.



8 August 2015 - a Banksy-style street art
 of a fly-tipped mattress, between Lorne
 and Latimer Roads
The block of flats on the corner of Lorne Road and Capel Road are also on a bomb site but this time the construction was by a housing association, Circle 33, now called Circle Anglia.


The newer block is flats, the older block
 - to the left - was originally a mother
 and baby home, but is now flats
A number of the houses along Capel Road have been used for social housing projects, both low support, and designated higher need residential care homes. The property next to the Golden Fleece was at one time a shop (Capel Road’s only other shop?) and for a while, allegedly a brothel. About 15 years it ago was converted to a care home for people with learning disabilities called The Chase.

88 Capel Road was once a supported housing scheme, in association with Newham MIND, for people with mental health support needs. It became ordinary housing again in 2010.

95 Capel Road: here two boys got the birch for stealing pigeons from the house in 1896, see extract below:


Chelmsford Chronicle - 1 May 1896
Another notable property was 110 Capel Road, the home (palace?) of the Bishop of Barking. In the 1990's it was occupied by Bishop Roger Sainsbury, but then sold by the diocese in the 2000's on his retirement. 

The fine detached former "Bishop's Palace"
Bishop Roger had wanted the bishop to live in Newham, not Barking, as it had a far larger population. He was long associated with the borough, especially the Mayflower Centre in Canning Town, where he worked with former English test cricket captain, Revd David Shepherd. The property was briefly known as Barking Lodge.

111 Capel Road is the most modern house in the road. It was architect-designed about 15 years ago on the site of an older house which was demolished, and arrived in modules on the back of a lorry. A crane was needed and the road was closed for a few days. 



The new house has a wonderful garden,
 which is occasionally open to the public,
 as part of the National Garden Scheme
112 Capel Road became notorious a few years ago, as the scene of a murder. The house, which is privately owned, had been empty for some years and occupied by squatters. There was a fight amongst the homeless men living there on 20 January 2011, when Paulius Korsakas, 27, murdered 37-year-old Russian Igor Vinogradov as the victim slept on the floor.

Newham Council subsequently issued compulsory purchase order (CPO) proceedings as the house had remained empty for so long. At one time the council had the largest CPO programme in the country, against empty private sector properties, funded by the GLA. 

There were well over 100 CPOs in the borough but the programme ended when the money ran out and priorities changed. 112 Capel is one of the last two CPOs. 12 Ridley Road, another long term private empty house, was also CPO’d in the mid 2000's.

145 Capel Road and its neighbours display some lovely detailing – such as the barley sugar-twist iron supports to the front bay; and the dog tooth timber detail over the sash windows. They also have interesting door canopies. There is a large variety of these aspects on the road, and many of the features were mass produced for Victorian terraced housing, and builders bought them from catalogues.



151 – 152 Capel Road were built in 1887 by the Bristolian sailmaker (see above) as a semi detached pair. To the right is another semi detached pair and this photo shows the varying building styles that add such charm to Capel Road.



One of the anomalies of this part of Capel Road is that some but not all of the houses have deeds that show that the land ownership extends to the hedge line on the opposite side of the road, up to where the ditch now is. This makes these house owners responsible for the state of the hedge line on the north side of Capel Road.

This clearly shown in the deeds for 156 Capel Road and its neighbours:


This early legal document from the
 mid 1880's marks the house plot in
 red and you can see the detached tiny
 piece of land on the other side of
 the road. The exact reason
 for this is not quite clear.
These house deeds show something else interesting:


The original plot numbers and house names
 are shown, the strip on the other side of the road
 and the PH, the public house:'The Golden Fleece'.

153 Capel Road was the base of the Taurus Co. just before the First World War:

Sussex Agricultural Express 11 July 1913
154 Windsor Villa plot 719 – see photo below
155 Osborne Villa plot 720 – see photo below
156 Inverness Villa plot 721 – the house name was destroyed in modernisation in 1980s
157 Balmoral Villa plot 722 – name survives over the front door. 



There was a tragedy at Windsor Villa not long after it was built.


Essex Newsman 13 February 1892
161 Capel Road:

Essex Newsman 14 July 1917

The Golden Fleece


The earliest traceable reference to the Fleece, as it is known, appears to be about 1871, accoprding to pub history websites.

There is nothing new in complaining about funerals near the pub – here is a letter from “Capel Road” on 3 September 1897 ..... a resident – complains of potential funerals along “what has hitherto been a quiet thoroughfare ...Wanstead Flats being the people’s property, the people have a right to have a voice in the matter”.

For details of the Fleece and all properties to the north east of it, ob Capel Road, see the articles on this website on the history of Manor Park: here and here.

Originally there was no road from Capel Road direct to the entrance to the City of London cemetery. An article appeared on 19 November 1897 “Road over Flats not wanted”. ...A petition by Capel Road residents to the Epping Forest Committee against the road from Druitt’s Corner. 

It would turn Capel Road into a “black coach road” and destroy its privacy, depreciate property values and destroy “the rural aspect of the locality".  See also:


Morning Post 20 October 1897
Druitt was another firm of local stonemasons attracted by the many cemeteries nearby.

Addendum

In 2008 Thames Water dug a major pipeline across Wanstead Flats, just north of Capel Road, to connect the new desalination plant at Beckton with the Waterworks roundabout on the A406 Woodford.



Work lasted for many months and caused considerable disruption. However it also allowed some investigation of what lay under the flats. On the site of the East Ham prefabs author Peter Williams found this piece of corrugated iron which no doubt came from one of the roofs of the prefabs. If you look carefully in the long grass just to the east of the Fleece you can still see other bits of debris representing demolition rubble for the 1960's.


Corrugated iron from the roof of an East Ham
 prefab, found during pipeline works, 2008
Lemonade bottles and other domestic debris were also found during the pipeline excavations. There was a duty archaeologist on the site keeping a watching brief but nothing ancient was found as this was not an area of historic settlement but Forest waste and pasture land.

These large concrete blocks dug by the Thames
 Water contractors may have been part of the anti
 glider defences we know were installed on Wanstead
 Flats in WW2. There was a great fear of invasion by
 airborne German troops and gliders (as later the allies
 did at Arnhem) so anti glider ditches were dug
 across the Flats, and obstacles put in place.

Miscellaneous press cuttings of interest

London Evening Standard 23 April 1878
Sadly it has not been possible to identify the property below but it must have been substantial:


Chelmsford Chronicle 25 June 1886
The next one does not sound like very gentlemanly behaviour: 


Essex Newsman 13 February 1892

Dundee Evening Telegraph 8 August 1947
Chelmsford Chronicle 3 April 1925


Chelmsford Chronicle 17 August 1906

A story about the very unlucky Mrs Cribbett of Capel Road:


Essex Newsman 26 August 1939


Daily Express 8 December 1893

Lloyd's Weekly Newspaper 8 December 1889

Chelmsford Chronicle 14 January 1887

Chelmsford Chronicle 16 April 1897
Acknowledgements: Peter is very grateful to Tony Morrison of Capel Rd for supplying pictures from his fine collection of old postcards of the area. And to the owner of 156 for allowing him to copy her deeds.

Footnote: If you live on Capel Road and know interesting details about your house's history - we'd be delighted to hear from you, so we can add it to this very detailed piece of work.

Murdergate (2)

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This is the second of two posts examining the eighteen murders that have been committed in Forest Gate since 2003. For details of the source of the information, see the footnote to this post. For some of the conclusions that can be drawn from the murders - see the earlier post, here.

10. Igor Vinogradov: Date of murder: 20 Jan 2011, solved (argument between associates)
A Lithuanian squatter who kicked and stamped his housemate to death was jailed for at least 17 years for the murder. Paulius Korsakas, 27, killed 37-year-old Russian Igor Vinogradov, as the victim slept on the floor of a house 112 Capel Road, on 20 January 2011.

Korsakas then attempted to burn his victim's body to destroy the evidence, before texting his girlfriend to admit: 'I broke one guy really badly'. Mr Vinogradov's body was not discovered until 11 days after the killing.


Convicted: Paulius Korsakas
- minimum of 17 years
Korsakas was convicted of murder after a trial at the Old Bailey and on 16 September 2011 was jailed for life with a minimum of 17 years before parole.


Witnesses told how Paulius Korsakas, a 27 year-old Lithuanian, attacked Mr Vinogradov in a drunken fury, believing he had been humiliated or slighted during a row.

Detective Sergeant Lesley O'Connell, said: "This was an extremely violent unprovoked attack on a defenceless man who was asleep at the time.

Korsakas was put out by the earlier argument and, fuelled by alcohol and his temper, took his revenge. I am pleased Igor's family have received justice."

11. Champion Ganda: Date of murder:9 May 2013, Old Bailey 6 Jun 2016 (unknown at present)
Champion Ganda, 17, was stabbed to death in Forest Gate on the afternoon of 9 May 2013. The teenager and a 16 year-old friend were found injured in Sandringham Road following a fight at around 2pm.


Victim: Champion Ganda
Champion was pronounced dead at the scene and a postmortem gave the cause of death as multiple stab wounds including a fatal injury to the chest.

The second victim, Shaquille Davis, was taken to hospital for treatment and was discharged two days later.

Two suspects were charged with murder in December 2015: Armani Lynch, 19, of Canterbury Way, Stevenage, and Marvin Simos, 19, of Hanameel Street, Silvertown.

They are due to stand trial at the Old Bailey in November 2016.

12. Sabeen Thandi: Date of murder: 7 July 2013 , solved (domestic)
Mother-of-three Sabeen Thandi, 37, was found unconscious at her home in Disraeli Road, on 7 July 2013. She was discovered under the duvet in the bedroom. Attempts were made to resuscitate her but she was confirmed dead on arrival at hospital. A postmortem gave the cause of death as strangulation.

On 8 July police charged Ms Thandi's husband Mohammed Badiuzzaman, 34, a security guard with murder. He pleaded guilty to murder at the Old Bailey on 6 May 2014. He was jailed for life with a minimum of 17 years before parole.


Victim: Sabeen Thandi
The couple began their relationship in November 2012 and he moved into her property in January 2013. Detectives said he became controlling and possessive, refusing to let her go out on her own or travel to and from her work as a doctor's receptionist. He also forced her to wear a hijab and pressured her into an Islamic marriage in April 2013.

On 14 June 2013 she went to a solicitors' firm in Watford and applied for a non-molestation order against her husband. It was granted three days later at Watford County Court, after she said she feared for the safety of her and her three children.


Convicted: Mohammed Badiuzzaman,
 minimum of 17 years
When police arrived at Sabeen's flat on 7 July, Badiuzzaman answered the door and claimed his partner had not returned from work. Detective Inspector Euan McKeeve said "Mohammed learnt that Sabeen had begun a relationship with someone else and murdered his wife in a fit of rage".

13. Anu Kapoor: Date of murder:4 Aug 2013, solved (domestic)
Mother-of-two Anu Kapoor, 27, was stabbed to death at her home in Shrewsbury Road on 4 August 2013. Police were called to the address by her husband Rojel Haque at around 4.50pm.

Anu, a receptionist for a firm of solicitors, was pronounced dead at the scene.

A postmortem gave the cause of death as a stab wound to the chest. The couple had two young children, a boy aged eight and a girl aged two.

On 7 August detectives charged Rojel Haque, 40, with murder.

Haque told police he returned home to find his wife had been attacked but prosecutors claimed he killed his wife because he believed his wife was having an affair.

He pleaded guilty to murder on the first day of his trial at Blackfriars Crown Court on 27 January 2014. The following day he was jailed for life with a minimum of 16 years before parole.

14. Amina Bibi: Date of murder:13 Sept 2013 , solved (domestic)
Amina Bibi, 43, was found stabbed to death at her flat in George Carver House in Station Road on 13 September 2013. Police and paramedics were called to the at around 8.50am. Amina, who was married with two children, had suffered around 70 knife wounds and was pronounced dead at the scene.


Victim: Amina Bibi
On 17 September 2013 police arrested the victim's husband Mohammad Ali (aka Mahendra Patel), 64 and Frederick Best, 46, of Kebbell Terrace, Claremont Road and both men were charged with murder.

The pair went on trial at Woolwich Crown Court on 22 July 2014. The prosecution claimed that Ali paid Best £1,000 to stab his wife to death after her sons had left for school. The court heard Ali was heavily in debt and was having an affair with his sister-in-law in Pakistan.

He had first met Best while running a shop in Woodgrange Road in Forest Gate in the early 1990s and was aware Best had a drugs habit.


Convicted: husband Mohammed Ali (aka
Mahendra Patel) - minimum of 24 years
When Ali left to do the school run, Best entered the communal doors and use a key to get access to the flat and attack Amina Bibi, stabbing her 70 times.

The crack cocaine addict fled the flat when the eldest son returned minutes later, to pick up school work he had left behind.

Best later told police that he was paid £1,000 to burgle the flat and entered to find Amina Bibi had already been stabbed and was lying on the floor covered in blood. During the trial Ali denied he was having an affair or had paid for his wife to be killed.


Convicted: Frederick Best
 - minimum of 30 years
On 20 August 2014 the jury convicted both Best and Ali of murder. Both men were sentenced to life imprisonment. Best was given a minimum term of 30 years before parole and Ali was given a minimum term of 24 years before parole.

15. Milena Yulianova: Date of murder:28 Jan 2014, solved (domestic)
Milena Yulianova, 27, was stabbed to death by her husband at their Nigel Road home, on 28 January 2014. Milena, a Bulgarian national, was taken to hospital but died at 8.22 pm. She had been stabbed 13 times including a fatal injury to heart.

The next day her husband Jamshaid Khan, 28, was charged with murder. Khan went on trial at the Old Bailey on 23 June 2015. The prosecution claimed that he murdered his wife during a row after she refused to help him stay in the country.


Victim: Milena Yulianova
Khan arrived in the UK in April 2011 on a study visa and married Milena in December 2012. He was granted leave to stay until February 2013, but his appeals for indefinite leave were repeatedly refused and he was told to provide further documentation.

"He needed her help, he needed her co-operation and when ultimately she did not give it she had to pay the price with her life," said prosecutor Lisa Wilding QC.

He denied murder on the grounds of self-defence, telling the court his wife must have been injured during the struggle for the knife.

On 13 July 2015 the jury convicted Khan of murder. He was sentenced to life imprisonment with a minimum of 20 years before parole, on 17 July 2015.


Convicted: Jamshaid Khan
 - minimum of 20 years
Judge Stephen Kramer QC said: "You killed Milena in anger because she wouldn't help and support you in that application."

Investigating officer Detective Inspector Andrew Kelly, of the Homicide and Major Crime Command, said: "The jury were satisfied Khan deliberately stabbed Milena in the midst of their altercation and I am pleased with today's verdict."

16. Edgaras Kondrotas: Date of murder: 12 Jan 2015, solved (drunken rage)
This murder is very similar, in a number of ways, to that of Igor Vinogradov, see case 10, above. Edgaras Kondrotas, 28, was found dead at a house in Sebert Road on 12 January 2015.

Mr Kondrotas, a Lithuanian national from Goodmayes, was pronounced dead at the scene at 3.38 pm. A postmortem gave the cause of death as blunt force trauma to the abdomen.


Victim: Edgaras Kondrotas
Detectives believe he was assaulted by up to six men in Leyton High Road at around 11.30 pm the on 11 January 2015, after a night's drinking.

On 21 January Irvingas Makasejevas, 39, of Sebert Road was charged with his murder.


Convicted: Irvingas Makasejavas
 life sentence - 26 years minimum
He was convicted of the murder, described in court as involving "extreme brutality". He was sentenced to a minimum of 26 years, on 17 July 2016.

17. Phyllis Hayes: Date of murder:11 Jun 2015, solved (domestic)
Phyllis Hayes, 65, was found stabbed to death at her home in Idmiston Road on 11 June 2015.

Police were alerted at around midday after a gas engineer gained access to the property to investigate the source of a suspected gas leak. The engineer noticed all four gas knobs on the kitchen cooker had been turned on and discovered Mrs Hayes lying dead in her bedroom.


Victim: Phyllis Hayes
Mrs Hayes had suffered more than 50 stab wounds and was pronounced dead at the scene at 12.21pm. Detectives launched a murder investigation and appealed to trace her son Mark Hayes, 36, a part-time street cleaner. He had lived with his mother, but had not been seen for several days.

Hayes was arrested at 5.20am on 12 May 2015, after two officers from the Port of Tilbury Police found him hiding in a toilet block. He was charged with murder on 14 May and went on trial at Chelmsford Crown Court on 8 December 2015.

On 21 December he was convicted of murder and the following day was sentenced to life imprisonment with a minimum of 21 years, before parole. 

It is believed that after murdering his mother, Mark Hayes tried to cause an explosion in the flat by turning on the gas and putting a cigarette lighter in the microwave.

That afternoon detectives received information that Hayes had boarded a train to London at 14.06, only to get off at Wickford Station.

In the early hours of 12 June he entered a cabin in the grounds of a pub in Tilbury and attacked a man sleeping inside. Hayes battered the victim, Alan Pryer, with a trophy and stabbed him in the torso and leg but Mr Pryer managed to escape.


Convicted: Mark Hayes - 21 years for
 murder of his mother, eight and a
 half years for attempted murder of Alan
Pryer and five and a half years for arson
Following his trial, Hayes was also sentenced to eight-and-a-half years for the attempted murder of Mr Pryer and sentenced to life imprisonment with a minimum of five-and-a-half years for the arson with intent to endanger life at his home in Idmiston Road.

18. Harbhajan Singh Rooprai: Date of murder: 25 Dec 2015 , solved (bungled dispute attack, where the murdered man was an "innocent victim")
Harbhajan Singh Rooprai, 60, was found dead after a house fire in Field Road, on Christmas Day 2015. The body of Mr Rooprai was found inside the house. He was pronounced dead at the scene.

Victim: Harbhajan Singh Rooprai
Detectives said they believed fire was started deliberately and launched a murder investigation the following day.

On 30 December Tyrone Jacobs, 27 of Ramsay Road, Forest Gate, was charged with murder. The Old Bailey jury heard that Jacobs had fallen out with one of the other tenants of Rooprai's multi-occupancy house and set fire to the property on 25 December.

The would-be victim escaped, but Rooprai was unable to escape the house once the fire took hold.


The Field Road blaze, and
 scene of Harhajan Rooprai's murder
Tyrone Jacobs was found guilty of arson with intent to murder and sentenced to a minimum of 30 years at the Old Bailey in June 2016.


Convicted: Tyrone Jacobs
 - minimum of 30 years
This concludes two rather depressing posts on recent murders in Forest Gate.

The posts record the killings on 18 people for overwhelmingly trivial matters, with major incarceration consequences for the perpetrators. 

It is not the role of this blog to veer into matters of criminal justice policy, but the stories portrayed over these posts throw up fundamental concerns over the inadequacies of Britain's criminal justice system.

The threat of lengthy prison sentences clearly provided no deterrent for the murderers convicted of the crimes, induced by by relatively minor causes.

Other than social retribution by incarceration - at considerable public cost - it is difficult to see what benefits lengthy prison sentences will serve. It is equally unclear how those convicted will have their future re-introduction to society and rehabilitation aided by being banged up for long periods with others, from whom they will presumably learn other "tricks of the trade".


Footnote:


The Murder map website (here) is run by volunteers and receives no official funding. They would be grateful for any donations, to keep their project active. Details can be found on the site.  We express our thanks to them for their meticulous work, which has enabled this post to be written.

Fires and drought on Wanstead Flats - a reflection

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This August is a significant anniversary month for Wanstead Flats; the fortieth since drought dried area up, and the tenth since it encountered a major fire.

So, we felt it an appropriate moment to remember, both them and previous fires on the Flats - celebrate would hardly be the word! Peter Williams looks back.

2016 is the fortieth anniversary of the Great Drought in Britain when the country was ravaged by grass and heath land fires for over two months. From 22 June until 26 August -  nine weeks - the weather was consistently dry, sunny and hot. The summer of 1976 marked the culmination of a prolonged drought which had begun in April 1975.

By April 1976 the drought had become extremely serious, not only for the water-supply industry but also for agriculture. The topsoil in East Anglia had turned to dust and was being systematically eroded by stiff easterly winds, and farmers warned of poor yields unless the rains came soon. They didn't.

A Drought Bill was rushed through Parliament, water consumption was restricted as reservoirs and aquifers dried out, the parched countryside turned from green to brown and from brown to white as the last vestiges of moisture disappeared, and there were extensive heath and woodland fires in southern England. Finally a Minister for Drought, Dennis Howell, was appointed to co-ordinate water conservation. Within three days it had started raining!

The centrepiece of the summer, meteorologically speaking, was a truly unprecedented heatwave which lasted from 22 June to 16 July - 25 consecutive days - on each of which the temperature climbed to 27C or more (the 80s F) somewhere of other in the  UK.

Even more remarkable, the temperature reached 32C (the 90s F) on every one of the 15 successive days from 23 June to 7 July, inclusive. (Source Philip Eden website weatheronline.)

2006 was also a drought year in the UK.

9 August 2016 marked the tenth anniversary of the largest fire on Wanstead Flats for many years. It burned several acres of ground and made the news. It was a hot dry summer and the fire started near the north end of Centre Road.

There was a strong north westerly breeze blowing so it spread rapidly to the south east amongst the long grass only stopping when it reached the cut grass of the playing fields. The damage covered an area equivalent to 15-20 football pitches.

Eight fire engines attended and Centre Road was closed for several days whilst they were damping down hot spots which kept flaring up in the hot, dry and windy conditions. The last fire engine left nearly a week later.



In fact, there is a long history of fires on the Flats – the first account is from 1835 of a fire covering 20 acres:


Morning Advertiser - 13 August 1835
There was no organised fire brigade at this time (just tiny wooden parish manual engines) so there was no option but to call out the army’s Royal Engineers from Woolwich Barracks. The sappers dug trenches to contain the fire, not to fight it. Interestingly, to this day the fire brigade in Paris is a regiment of the French army and hence are called Sapeurs (sappers) Pompiers.

Here is a further report on this fire, with the interesting addition of a supposed cause:


https://books.google.co.uk/books/books?id=eeQ_AAAAYAAJ-1858
(The relationship between "gipsy partying" and Wanstead Flats is an interesting one and will be the subject of a future article.)

Fires continued to be a feature in the nineteenth century, often caused by what we now call anti social behaviour:


Cheltenham Chronicle - 13 August 1887


Essex Newsman - 15 September 1906
The pictures below give some impression of 2006. Fire engines were deployed onto the flats.



Large columns of smoke covered Forest Gate east of Centre Road and drifted south over the houses. There was no risk to property however.



A ghostly fire engine on the Flats. You can see how dry this grass was in 2006.



Centre Road was closed for a couple of days as water supply was a problem and the hoselines ran across and down it. This is near the Centre Road car park.



This specialist hoselayer was deployed from as far away as Southgate. Other specialist fire appliances were brought in. Note hoselines down Centre Rd junction of Forest Rd. It was nice to walk down the road with no traffic across the Flats for once.



Looking south towards Capel Point, at the corner of Woodford Rd/Capel Rd, and Canary Wharf in the distance. In total 30 acres was affected. Note how the paths were not burnt as they are gravelly and compacted so the fire tended to jump them. Some wartime features were exposed by the fire.


The same view 13 August 2016. Notice
 how the vegetation on the right (mainly
 broome) has grown so extensively





This image is from Google earth, dated
 September 2006, and clearly shows the fire damage.


The light area in the photo, above, is the Centre Road car park. Top right corner is Aldersbrook Road changing rooms and car park. The pattern of burning is quite clear, with the origin, top left, of burnt area. There was a stong breeze from the north west. Note how the paths remain very clear.

Since the end of cattle grazing on the Flats in 1998, due to the BSE crisis, there has been a significant issue of the spread of such scrub. There have been no major fires in the last few years to limit its spread.

The Corporation of London are planning a programme of scrub reduction in a managed way involving some local voluntary groups including the Wren Conservation and Wildlife Group. Broome is an important home for wildlife especially birds, but there needs to be a balance between open grassland and the more scrubby areas; that balance traditionally would have been maintained by grazing with cattle nibbling out certain plants and encouraging diversity.


Newham council parks police white CCTV
 vehicle on the Flats on 9 August 2006
In 2006 the Newham's parks' police service courted controversy and was later closed down. Maverick officers put blue lights on vehicles when they should not have (as they were not official 999 emergency vehicles), and there were several other scandals associated with them, including using Metropolitan Police paperwork in tackling what was anti social behaviour, not crime, e.g. incorrect disposal of waste by shopkeepers.

They “arrested” some boys on Aldersbrook Road near the Flats even though they were not in Newham at the time but in Redbridge. Indeed the picture above shows them operating on the flats which are in Redbridge where they had no legal authority as they were a Newham council force.

An independent solicitor, Amanda Kelly, was commissioned to conduct an investigation into the Newham parks police. As the Waltham Forest Guardian reported it in May 2006:


An investigation has been launched into claims that two boys were unlawfully held and questioned by parks' constables outside the boundaries of Newham.
If true, the incident will do further damage to the reputation of the division, which was condemned as badly trained and poorly run by an independent inquiry last year.
The report by solicitor Amanda Kelly found that the service was riddled by unproven allegations of abuses of power, corruption racism and bullying.
Despite having powers of arrest inside parks, the constabulary have the same authority as members of the public on the streets and are not permitted to patrol outside Newham.
Kwaljit Singh, 17, of Campbell Road, East Ham, told the Guardian that he was attempting to cross Aldersbrook Road in Wanstead when a van carrying up-to six officers blocked his passage.
He admitted that he shouted at the van, which then stopped and reversed. He said he panicked asnd fled, but was pursued by the constables who caught up with him.
He was joined by his friend Sahmi Mohammed, 14, of Whitear Walk, Stratford, and the two were ordered into the back of the van.
According to an official log seen by the Guardian, when constables noticed Sahmi was wearing a tag the police were called and asked if there was any reason why he should be detained.
A police officer refused to give the constables any information and they were forced to release the two.
Kwaljit said: I admit I did shout at the van and panicked a bit, but they were intimidating and calling me names. I knew straight away who they are because they often stop me and my friends, but they did not identify themselves and tell me what my rights were.
The log records the incident as taking place "out of borough" and listed an anti-social behaviour category listed as "shouting/swearing".
A council spokesman said : "We have been made aware of an alleged incident in Aldersbrook Road and are investigating the matter".
See also:  http:/www.blowe.org.uk/2012/08/how-is-this-not-impersonating-police.html

Footnotes

1. Not the 2006 fire but this is Capel Road Forest Gate with the flats in the background.



This Land Rover, above, was a former fire engine appliance served with SFOR, (the United Nations stabilisation force) in the former Yugoslavia.

You can see SFOR label on the rear bumper nearside. It could regularly be seen driving round Forest Gate, where it was photographed in late 2005, still with its crests on the doors. 

It was on civilian registration plates having been re-registered on leaving the defence forces, and blue lights removed. Defence Fire Service stickers were still on the doors though:



In 2015 it was reported on a specialist’s website - It now drives around Wythenshawe in Manchester.  It is more black than red but still looks the same: same back door and still has the fire stickers on the driver and passenger door!


2. Author Peter Williams is both a local historian and a historian of the fire brigade.


Forest Gate health check (1) - poor General Practice

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The NHS has become far more responsive to patient feedback, and in communicating key performance data about many parts of the health service in Britain, over recent years.

Below we present what the NHS Choices website says about the fourteen registered GP practices in E7. 

The 14, between them, have 77,265 registered patients and employ 47 GPs - 18 female and 29 male.

The NHS Choices site provides some performance data, much gained from patients' surveys, we feature a couple of those fields in the details below.

It should be stressed that these tables reflect patient feedback, not medical competence, of which we have no knowledge or experience upon which to comment.

Nor do the tables directly refer to the premises from which the GPs work, although it is clear from many of the photos below that there is a great variation in their appearances. Not surprisingly, perhaps, the scruffier looking surgeries tend to fare worst in the feedback tables.

We have created a table concerning two of the patients' feedback concerns; the first shows the percentage of patients attached to the surgery who would recommend the practice to friends and family.  

The second indicates the percentage of patients who are satisfied with the practice's surgery hours (details of these, for each practice, can be found via the links below).

As far as the patient recommendation table is concerned, NHS Choices, in addition to showing a percentage recommendation figure for each practice, indicate how that figure compares with the national average.

Unfortunately, the site does not state what the national average approval percentage figure is, but it indicates whether a surgery's performance is: among the best nationally (in top 25% of ratings of all surgeries), mid range nationally (within the middle 50% of practice percentages, nationally), or among the worst, nationally (within the lowest 25% approval ratings nationally).

Forest Gate's surgeries, on the whole do not fare well, as the table, ranked in descending order, indicates:

Patients who would recommend the practice (%)

Claremont - 79.4%
Woodgrange - 70.0%

The two surgeries, above, are mid range, nationally in their recommendation rating.  The 12 surgeries below are defined as among the worst, nationally.

Driver - 66.1%
Krishnamurthy - 65.3%
Swedan - 64.6%
Bapna - 63.5%
Shrewsbury Road - 63.4%
Yesufa - 62.9%
Abiola - 62.5%
Driver - 66.1%
Birchdale Road - 56.6%
Mahmud - 53.5%
Shanker - 44.7%
Boleyn Road - 35%

Patients satisfied with surgery hours (%)

Claremont - 84.1%
Birchdale Road - 83%
Woodgrange - 82.6%
Bapna - 82.1%
Yesufa - 79.4%
Krishnamurthy - 76.9%
Abiola - 62.5%
Mahmud - 71.7%
Driver - 71.2%
Swedan - 71%
Patel - 71%
Shrewsbury Road - 69.6%
Shanker - 66.4%
Boleyn Road - 56.9%

Star ratings (out of 5) - average given by patients

Abiola - 4.5
Claremont - 4.5
Woodgrange - 4
Patel - 3.5
Swedan - 3.5
Bapna - 3
Mahmud - 3
Driver - 3
Shanker - 3
Birchdale Road - 2
Krishnamurthy - 2
Shrewsbury Road - 2
Yesufa - 2
Boleyn Road - 1.5

Far more information about individual practices can be accessed via this link.

Forest Gate Practices:in order defined by NHS Choices:

P Abiola, 121 Woodgrange Road, E7 0EP. Tel: 020 8250 7550

Registered patients: 3,761

GPs in practice: 2 (1 female, 1 male)

Special services: Asthma clinic; Learning disability health check




62.5% of patients would recommend the practice (among the worst, nationally)

75.3% of patients satisfied with surgery opening hours 

4.5 Star rating (out of 5): (based on 18 surgery review responses)

Govind Bapna, 511 Katherine Road E7 8DR. Tel: 020 8472 7029

Registered patients: 1,084

GPs in practice: 1 (1 m)

Special services: Asthma clinic; Learning disability health check




63.5% of patients would recommend the practice (among worst, nationally)

82.1% of patients satisfied with surgery opening hours 

3 Star rating (out of 5): (based on 5 surgery review responses)

Birchdale Road Medical Centre, 2 Birchdale Rd, E7 8AR. Tel: 020 8472 1600

Registered patients: 3,285

GPs in practice: 2 (1 f, 1 m)

Special services: Learning disability health check




56.6% of patients would recommend the practice (among the worst, nationally)

83% of patients satisfied with surgery opening hours 

2 Star rating (out of 5): (based on 6 surgery review responses)

Boleyn Rd Practice (Dr S Rafiq), 162 Boleyn Rd, E7 9QJ. Tel: 020 8503 5656

Registered patients:7,226

GPs in practice: 2 (2 m)

Special services: Asthma clinic; Child health and development; Child immunisation, Drug and alcohol services, Long acting, reversible, contraception; Smoking cessation Travel health and Yellow Fever




35% of patients would recommend the practice (among the worst, nationally)

56.9% of patients satisfied with surgery opening hours 

1.5 Star rating (out of 5): (based on 43 surgery review responses)

Claremont Clinic, 459 - 463 Romford Rd E7 8AB. Tel: 020 8522 0222

Registered patients: 8,719

GPs in practice: 6 (3 f, 3 m)

Special services: Anti-coagulent monitoring and dosing; Child health and development - Baby clinic; Child immunisation; Minor surgery (e.g. removal of moles and skin lesions); Obsesity management; Physiotherapy; Primary care counselling (CBT); Smoking cessation; Travel health and Yellow Fever




79.4% of patients would recommend the practice (mid range, nationally)

84.1% of patients satisfied with surgery opening hours 

4.5 Star rating (out of 5): (based on 29 surgery review responses)

Dr DK Mahmud and Dr SW Rahman, 45, Westbury Rd, E7 8BU. Tel: 020 8472 4128

Registered patients: 4,199

GPs in practice: (1 f, 2 m)

Special services: Asthma clinic; Baby clinic, with health visitor; COPD clinic with spirometry; Diabetes clinic; Learning disability health check, Travel health, without Yellow Fever




53.5% of patients would recommend the practice (among the worst, nationally)

71.7% of patients satisfied with surgery opening hours 

3 Star rating (out of 5): (based on 16 surgery review responses)

Dr CM Patel, 2 Jepson Road, E7 8LZ. Tel: 020 8470 6429

Registered patients: 2,112

GPs in practice: 2 (1 f, 1 m)

Special services: Asthma clinic; Child health and development; Child immunisation; Learning disability health check; Primary care counselling service; Travel clinic, without Yellow Fever




62.1% of patients would recommend the practice (among the worst, nationally)

68.6% of patients satisfied with surgery opening hours 

3.5 Star rating (out of 5): (based on 25 surgery review responses)

Dr Swedan and Partner, Little Lister Health Centre, 121 Woodgrange Rd, E7 0EP. Tel: 020 8250 7530

Registered patients: 3,121

GPs in practice: 3 (2 f, 1 m)

Special services: Asthma clinic; Baby clinic with health visitor; Child immunisation; COPD clinic with spirometry; Learning disability health check; Long-acting, reversible contraception; Minor surgery (e.g. removal of moles and skin lesions); Primary care counselling service; Smoking cessation clinic; Travel health, without Yellow Fever




64.6 % of patients would recommend the practice (among the worst, nationally)

71 % of patients satisfied with surgery opening hours 

Star rating 3.5 (out of 5): (based on 20 surgery review responses)

Driver and Partners, Little Lister Health Centre, 121 Woodgrange Rd, E7 0EP. Tel: 020 8250 7510

Registered patients: 6,930

GPs in practice: 4 (2 f, 2 m)

Special services: Learning disability health check 




66.1% of patients would recommend the practice (among the worst, nationally)

71.2% of patients satisfied with surgery opening hours 

3 Star rating (out of 5): (based on 21 surgery review responses)

T Krishnamurthy, East Ham Memorial Hospital, Shrewsbury Road, E7 8QR. Tel: 020 8250 6555

Registered patients: 2,006

GPs in practice: 2 (2 m)

Special services: Asthma clinic; Child health and development; Child immunisations; COPD clinic with spirometry; Minor surgery (e.g. removal of moles and skin lesions); Primary care counselling service; Smoking cessation clinic; Travel health, without Yellow Fever




65.3 % of patients would recommend the practice (among the worst, nationally)

79.6 % of patients satisfied with surgery opening hours 

2 Star rating (out of 5): (based on 8 surgery review responses)

PD Shanker and Partners, 75 - 77 Upton Lane, E7 9PB. Tel: 020 8471 6912

Registered patients: 7,240

GPs in practice: 4 (1 f, 3 m)

Special services: Asthma clinic; Learning disability health check




44.7 % of patients would recommend the practice (among the worst, nationally)

66.4 % of patients satisfied with surgery opening hours 

3 Star rating (out of 5): (based on 58 surgery review responses)

Shrewsbury Road Surgery, Shrewsbury Rd, E7 8QP. Tel: 020 8586 5111

Registered patients: 12,848

GPs in practice: 5 (2f, 3m)

Special services: Asthma clinic; Child health and development; Child immunisations; COPD clinic with spirometry; Minor surgery (e.g. removal of moles and skin lesions); Travel health, without Yellow Fever




63.4 % of patients would recommend the practice

69.6 % of patients satisfied with surgery opening hours 

2 Star rating (out of 5): (based on 19 surgery review responses)

Woodgrange Medical Practice, 40 Woodgrange Road, E7 0QH. Tel: 020 8221 3100/3128

Registered patients: 12,317

GPs in practice: 11 (4f, 7m)

Special services: Asthma clinic; Child health and development; Learning disability health check




70.0 % of patients would recommend the practice (mid range, nationally)

82.6 % of patients satisfied with surgery opening hours 

4 Star rating (out of 5): (based on 49 surgery review responses)

A Yesufa, East Ham Memorial Building, Shrewsbury Road, E7 8QR. Tel: 020 8552 2299

Registered patients: 2,417

GPs in practice: 1 (1 m)

Special services: Child immunisation




62.9 % of patients would recommend the practice (among worst, nationally)

79.4 % of patients satisfied with surgery opening hours 

2.5 Star rating (out of 5): (based on 7 surgery review responses).

Footnote: For further information about each of these surgeries, visit here .

Edwardian Forest Gate - a photographic essay (1) - street life

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The Edwardian era (1901 - 1910) was a fascinating one - wedged between the end of Victorian Britain and the outbreak of World War 1. Locally, it saw the first reversal of population growth, after a century of continuous expansion (numbers fell from 60,892 in 1901 to 51,071 by the time of the census a decade later).

The decade co-incided with an early boom in the post card trade; and the many survivors enable us to paint a vivid street and social portrait of the district, perhaps for the first time.

In this, the first of two posts, we reproduce a number of Edwardian postcards showing Forest Gate streets, a little over a century ago. They are presented, somewhat unimaginatively, in alphabetical order. 

For a flavour of life in and around these streets at the time, we would refer you to three previous posts on this blog, taken from a 1907 publication, by social commentators, Howarth and Wilson, in their book: West Ham - a study in industrial problems.

The posts refer to the three then local authority districts:

Forest Gate Ward
Park Ward
Upton Ward

In the second post in this "photographic essay" of Edwardian Forest Gate, we will reproduce postcards illustration recreation and entertainment, religion, education, transport and politics of the time.


Street life in Edwardian Forest Gate


See how your road has changed over the last century - absence of traffic and litter and abundance of healthy trees are among the most obvious differences between now and then.


Atherton Road - 1910
Broadway (with fire station and ladder
 in front of what is now the semi-
dilapidated dentist) - 1904


Broadway - 1908
Capel Road - 1906

Chestnut Avenue - 1908

Chestnut Avenue - 1910
Claremont Road - c 1910

Dames Road - 1906

Earlham Grove - c 1910
Ham Park Road (163) - 1905

Hampton Road - c 1901
Osborne Road - c 1907
Romford Road - 1904

Romford Road - 1904
Romford Road (with Congregational
 church) - 1905
Sebert Road - 1908
Upton Lane - 1910


Upton Lane, corner of Whyteville Road,
 1902 - old steam laundry, on site of
 what is now petrol station
Windsor Road - 1908
Woodford Road - 1904
Woodgrange Road - 1903


Woodgrange Road - 1907
If you have copies of Edwardian postcards of other Forest Gate streets you'd like to share, we'd be delighted to revive them and add them to those above. Just let us know, via the contact points, shown on this site.


The street where you live (7) - Sprowston Road

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This is the seventh in an occasional series of articles by Forest Gate resident, Peter Williams, who specialises in Newham housing, maps and local history. In each he looks, in detail, at the history of particular streets in Forest Gate.

Names associated with the City of Norwich are common in Forest Gate because the old land owing families like the Gurneys and Frys originated in Norfolk. Sprowston is part of Norwich.

The 1863 Ordnance Survey (OS) Map. Details, here
The Eastern Counties railway arrived in the late 1830's and started to open the area up to development. However you can see on the map above that the area round Sprowston Road was undeveloped in the mid 1860's. It is to the left or west of the Pawnbrokers Almshouses (see here for history of the almshouses).


1895 OS map. Details, here
On this map the Almshouses have gone, and in this 30 year period hundreds of houses were built, including Hamfrith, Atherton, Norwich, Sprowston, and Clova Roads, and Earlham Grove, which were part of the Gurney estate (c. 1870–90) ....and the north side of Romford Road. 

These houses, many of which survive, include detached, semi-detached, and terraced types. In Romford Road, where sites were no doubt more expensive, they are often three-storeyed. Some on the north side of that road had coach-houses in Atherton Mews and Sprowston Mews (see below).


Comfortable, middle class occupants

Many of the houses in Sprowston Road are very substantial and the late Victorians and Edwardians would have called them villas. They were aimed at solid professionals (solicitors; engineers; musicians; politicians; senior teachers), attracted by the excellent railway service to the City, nearby open space and the many good shops on Woodgrange Road.

The 1901 census, for example, includes:

Robert Leslie marine engineer lived at Mayfield, Sprowston Road(A few years later in 1913 this same house was occupied by an architect Frank Webster)
20 Sprowston was occupied by a marine chemical manufacturer, Herbert Canham
14 was occupied by a bank manager
12 was occupied by a solicitor
21 was supervisor in Inland Revenue (see below for later occupant - servant employing painter and decorator)
23 was a bank accountant
7, 8, 24 and 25 were occupied by people "living on their own means", i.e. they had money

Domestic help was still common until the Second World War, as the adverts, below, indicates:


Chelmsford Chronicle, 18 May 1888

16 Sprowston Road in 2015
Chelmsford Chronicle, 19 Sep 1890

Rupert Vigor was a plumber and decorator. As late as 1938 domestic help was still needed to sleep in:


Essex Newsman, 4 Jun 1938

The Era October 1935


Famous ex-resident: Tony Banks MP

One of the most famous residents of the street was politician Tony Banks MP who lived at number 7 till the late 1990's, with his wife Sally Jones, a Newham Council social worker. Extra security was added to the house, because of possible threats, including alarms, grilles and external roller shutters, like you see in Germany.


7 Sprowston Road, former home
 of the late Tony Banks MP
When the Channel Tunnel Rail link (CTRL) was built in the mid 1990's the tunnel passed directly under the houses, and he made various comments about the blight. For more on Tony Banks and his famous quotes and remarks, including those about the tunnel, see here.


Block adjacent to 2 Sprowston Road

This is an example of one of many small blocks of flats built speculatively in Newham over recent years to a fairly low standard which has ended up in the private rented sector (PRS), not owner occupation. Space standards are minimal and the overall quality is not good, but there is an insatiable demand for renting. 


Speculatively built block at the corner of
 Sprowston and Earlham Grove. 
In 1991 census the PRS has about 20,000 dwellings in Newham and it was declining. By 2011 census this has risen to over 40,000 dwellings. Newham estimated in 2010 there were 4,000 landlords; in fact there are over 22,000, as revealed by the council’s pioneering landlord licensing scheme which requires every PRS property to get a licence from the council to operate.

Many amateur landlords have one or two buy to let properties, effectively their personal pension.

Over the years many of the large houses became run down and the landlords switched them to HMOs (House in Multiple Occupation, as the council call them). A number of the houses were homeless temporary accommodation. In other words, councils rented the property from a private landlord and then placed families that Newham has a duty to house in the accommodation.

Some were divided into rooms. This particularly happened from the mid 1990s when councils became very short of accommodation as the Right to Buy, the boom in buy to let and the end of rent control in 1988 had a major effect on supply of affordable homes in London. Councils were not in a position to build homes and had to rely on housing associations.

The table of housing statistics, below, illustrates the position.  The coumns are, respectively: Date;Bed and breakfast;Homes leased from private landlords; andCouncil’s own stock let on temporary basis:


1.4.921991960314
1.4.93502407288
1.4.94452346273
1.4.95961770174
1.4.96531500300
1.4.9783125584
1.4.98226138138
1.4.992701202157
1.4.003461369292
1.4.016981522494
1.4.021000n/an/a


Source: Homeless statistics Newham
 published on government websites. 

The council also had about 70 bedspaces in its own hostels like 136 Earlham Grove. The property crash of 1992-6 account for the low numbers in B&B during those years. Leasing fell when the property market recovered and B&B went up.


Cheap hotels


Global Guest House 25 Sprowston Road still operates as a cheap hotel for the homeless and other homeless hotels trade on the Romford Rd nearby, though some have tried to move up market and attract tourists and building contractors since the Olympics:


McCreadies Hotel

Newham Hotel
Hartley Hotel
Manor House hotel
Forest View Hotel
St Andrew Hotel
Viking Motel E15


Often these were used by other London boroughs, not Newham, as homeless temporary accommodation and conditions could be a concern for Newham's environmental health inspectors.

By the 1990s Newham had a number of policies in place to try to limit the impact. For example, under its planning policy there was a presumption that further hostel-type uses would not be allowed round Earlham Grove and the neighbouring streets as there were already children’s homes, hostels for single mums and young people as well as the homeless families’ accommodation.

Passmore Urban Renewal, 1 of 5 pilot partnerships trialled by the then Labour government, formed between local housing associations and LBN, was registered in Nov 2000 with an office at 238 Romford (a property that became controversial for other reasons in 2015 when a Newham councillor was seen to be breaching licence conditions for an HMO he had established there without obtaining relevant permissions, see here). 

Its aim was to lead urban regeneration in Forest Gate within the HMO Registration and Single Regenerating Budget (SRB) whose boundaries were co-terminus, for example buying empty or badly managed private sector homes and making them available for either renting to key workers or sale. Funding was obtained from the government’s SRB or Single Regeneration Budget and New Deal for Communities or NDC money. Fuller details can be seen here.


Local Housing Associations

Later in the mid 2000's Newham Council formed a brand new housing association called Local Space with the sole aim of providing better quality homeless temporary accommodation. Newham handed over 450 occupied tower block flats as starting equity, the government put in £25m and there was a large commercial loan from the Bank of Canada secured against the equity and government money. 

In the next few years Local Space was able to buy 1000 additional homes across east London as high quality homeless temporary accommodation for Newham at relatively affordable rents to the tenants. Local Space has been commended as an example of innovative good practice. Passmore assets later went to Local Space. See here.

The 19th century Quaker philanthropists like the Frys and Gurneys would have approved on such public sector driven renewal at rents people can afford given their involvement in things like Cadbury’s Bourneville village trust in Birmingham, and Rowntree and Terry’s in York.

The block of flats below at the corner of Sprowston and Earlham was developed by Columbus First Housing Association in the 1980s. The association was wound up soon after and became part of Circle 33 HA, themselves later absorbed in Circle Anglia. 

This reflects the rationalisation of the housing association movement, the absorption of small associations into larger and larger ones. Some now own 80-100,000 properties. L&Q, a local association, has 70,000 and massive cash reserves and now build homes without government grant, to avoid some of their constraints, for example forcing housing associations to develop homes for sale not rent.


Flats on corner of Sprowston and Earlham Grove;
 housing association property, but also centre
 of strange international tax haven network
 of companies - see immediately below
31 Sprowston Road: international intrigue

This flat emerged as an address of convenience for a bewildering collection of companies and investment trusts, based in international tax havens, earlier this year (a photo of the block it is in is above). 

These were revealed by the recent so-called Panama Papers, produced by the International Consortium of Investigative Journalists. The ICIJ published over 11 million documents obtained from Panama-based lawyers, which showed the use of tax havens on an industrial scale by citizens from around the world, assumed usually for tax evasion purposes (see here).

It is difficult to know exactly what role the Spowston Road flat (picture) has, other than as an address of convenience for a complicated mish-mash of international wheelers and dealers.

The following would appear to be the case, according to the Panama Papers. The address is associated with a Chinese citizen, Zhu You Ting. This person is a shareholder in a Hong Hong company, registered in 2006, called UP and UP Co Ltd. The address at which it was registered in Hong Kong is also the registered address of over 7,000 other companies.

The other shareholder in UP and UP is a company called Mossfor Subscribers Ltd.  This firm is a shareholder in over 4,000 other companies.

The jurisdiction of UP and UP Co Ltd is Samoa. One of the reasons for using tax havens for international registration is that there are minimal demands on transparency from companies so registered.  Thus, there are no publically available details of the activities, incomes, beneficiaries or taxes paid by UP and UP - anywhere.

So: bewilderment. But it seems unlikely that anyone (or group or people) would resort to creating the complicated web of international jurisdictions and addresses of convenience, if they did not wish to hide activities, or evade taxation.

By turns: fascinating and frustrating - like most of the Panama Papers!


Sprowston Mews


At the Romford Road end of Sprowston Road is the mews. It even figures on specialist mews website like this one, where it says:


The Mews
Situated in East London in the Borough of Newham is Sprowston Mews; a through road off Sprowston Road. The Mews contains 22 properties used for commercial purposes. It is located on the site of the original Mews, but has been redeveloped to a degree that it no longer contains any surviving Mews properties.
The Mews is not part of a Conservation Area. A high explosive bomb fell into Clova Road, just north of the Mews in World war 11 (see here, for details). The properties have plain brick facades, surrounded a tarmacadam road surface.
The original purpose of the Mews was to provide stable/coach house accommodation for the main houses on the surrounding streets and nowadays they are used primarily for commercial purposes.
Before and since 2003 there have been a large amount of planning applications made for alterations to the properties within the Mews, the most notable thing being; the complete demolition of many properties and the erection of newer developments.

As Tony Banks was happy to point out,. the minicab firms, garages, panel beaters and car sprayers caused a lot of problems at the end of the road and this continues to this day. There is congestion, noise and the smell of the spray paint. An official Newham Council document from a few years ago summarises the planning position:


Site description
Sprowston Mews is an unadopted lane which runs between Norwich Road and Sprowston Road. The lane is within a largely conservation area and the western entrance is adjacent to the listed former Congregational Church (currently Azhar Academy Girl's school - see here for details of English Heritage listing). Buildings are in various uses, mainly employment (particularly car repair) and open spaces relating to gardens of residential properties.
The condition of the mews, buildings and land provide concerns relating to unauthorised uses of premises, pollution, noise, traffic congestion, fly-tipping, drainage and other anti-social behaviour issues.
Sprowston Mews is an allocated site within the Newham UDP (development plan) (m2) as a mixed-use development including residential, live/work and employment uses suitable for a residential area. There is guidance provided in the Sprowston Mews Supplementary Planning Guidance (SPG).

The official council map below shows the extent
 of  Sprowston Mews (source):(note this
 SPD is no longer current policy).

Interestingly a number of years ago a group of council officials recommended pursuing a Compulsory Purchase Order (CPO) on all the businesses, but councillors did not agree, as the cost would have been very considerable, as the council would have had to pay market value in compensation.

In 2016 the eastern end is all car related businesses, but in the last few years at the western end near Norwich Road some low quality residential properties have appeared. With gentrification in Forest Gate some innovative architects are proposing further residential development; as mews type dwellings in wealthier parts of London can be enormously attractive and up market. This mews clearly has potential.


Nearby £2m house?

Almost opposite the Mews is what the recent owners hoped would become Forest Gate's first £2m house - unfortunately they look unlikely to receive that asking price (see here for full details, and more recent developments).


Former businesses in Sprowston Mews


Westhill & Co

Essex Newsman, 24 Jul 1915
Essex Newsman, 28 Mar 1931
1954 Rye-Arc electrical engineers





1922 Palfryman printers & stationers



1949 Ampee Brush Co

Sevenoaks Chronicle and Kentish
 Advertiser, 17 Feb 1950
And in the same premises a few years later we have 1990 Mick Tomlin supplier of drapes and tracks to theatres:



Motor dealers

Fire engine near 22 Sprowston Road February 2012

As mentioned, above, there are a number of motor dealers in the Mews and one of them must have bought this Dennis Rapier retired fire engine from the West Sussex Fire and Rescue Service, it was a bit of an anomaly in East London, with its distinctive livery. It was not in Sprowston very long. It originally served at Worthing and has recently been preserved by an enthusiast in the south of England.

Dennis started building fire engines in the 1908 and the Rapier is considered by many fire-fighters to be the finest appliances ever built, with extraordinary road holding, even as speed. Sadly Dennis ceased to build fire engines in 2007 just before the centenary, another British manufacturer with a world-wide reputation for innovation and brilliant design that could not compete. Scania, Mercedes, MAN and Volvo dominate the market. (See here)

(The author Peter Williams is writing a book on the history of West Ham Fire Brigade, which used Dennis fire engines from 1911 to the brigade’s demise in 1965. For an extraordinary survival to this day of an open top 1931 West Ham Dennis Big 6 fire engine see here)

The West Ham machine is now in safe hands, in a millionaire’s private collection in the NE of England.


Location of a vicious and futile double murder in 2003


As we reported in our Murdergate blogs recently murder, there was a particularly brutal and pointless double murder near Sprowston Mews in 2003 (see here and here). Below is a photo of the weapon used in the killing, and a screengrab from the BBC website reporting on the conviction.


A mach machine pistol like the one used




Other informative press cuttings relating to Sprowston Road and Mews

Chelmsford Chronicle, 24 Dec 1886

22 Sprowston Road was known as Archibald House


Chelmsford Chronicle 9 Dec 1892
William Boddy had been born in Mevagissey, Cornwall, about 1840 and was a retired builder. He had migrated to London and had done well.


Essex Newsman, 11 Jun 1904
And finally the sad story of a headteacher worried as her school might be evacuated:


Chelmsford Chronicle, 7 Oct 1938

Edwardian Forest Gate - a photographic essay (2) - community life

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This is the second half of a two part photographic essay of life in Edwardian Forest Gate. As the previous article indicated, the Edwardian era - essentially the first decade of the twentieth century - co-incided with a boom in the production of postcards; and today we are the beneficiaries.  

Many of them survive, which makes it is possible to produce a fairly detailed photographic account of many aspects of contemporaneous life, for the first time.

The first post featured a range of fairly standard shots of roads at the time - mainly bereft of traffic, resplendent with trees and showing glimpses of Edwardian dress worn by the passers-by.

Here, we feature a number of themes of community life. The photos in each are interesting in themselves, but also illustrate changing times, as the copy below illustrates.

Recreation and entertainment

Although economic times were tough for much of the Edwardian period, widespread popular entertainment developed significantly.  This was supported by the emergence of a significant lower middle class, with some surplus income - and Forest Gate's population was a prime example of this; and also the widespread adoption of a five, or five and a half day, working week - which permitted time for leisure.

So, locally, concerts were regularly held in Earlham Hall, in Earlham Grove, and the Forest Gate Public Hall (later a cinema, theatre, skating rink, Upper Cut club etc) was opened for public entertainment for the first time (1902), at the every start of the Edwardian era.

Wanstead Flats attracted hundreds of people, with a bit of cash, for perhaps the first time.  So, below, we show fairs, a cinema and model yacht racing attended by huge crowds, on the Flats during the first decade of the twentieth century.

Wanstead Flats was not the only very pleasant open space, locally, for a stroll - as the photo of West Ham park in 1904 indicates.

Forest Gate could claim considerable sporting success at this time too, with Clapton FC winning the Amateur Cup in 1909.

The club itself, of course, was tucked behind the famous Old Spotted Dog, and the pleasant painting, below, shows that pub, to good effect, in the Edwardian era. The pub, itself, was in competition with probably twenty other pubs and alehouses in the district, at the time - the largest and most significant of them being the Princess Alice, located less than half a mile away.

Artists 1897 impression of Earlham Hall


Grand Theatre, Woodgrange Road, soon
 after opening and celebrating
 coronation of Edward V11, in 1902

Donkeys on Wanstead Flats, Whitsun Fair - 1900


Taylor's travelling bio-scope cinema
 - Wanstead Flats fair, 1903



Wanstead Flats fair - 1907

Wanstead Flats fair - 1907

Crowds at model yacht pond,
 Wanstead Flats, 1908


West Ham Park - 1904

1909 Clapton FC Amateur Cup winning
 team - Walter Tull second from right, front row


Old Spotted Dog - painting by H Smart, 1903

Old Spotted Dog, 1910


Princess Alice - 1907

Politics

Forest Gate had two MPs during the Edwardian era; one Conservative (Edward Gray - until 1905), and one Liberal (CFG Masterman, 1905 - 1910). 

Gray was followed by another Liberal posh boy: Baron de Forest (1911 - 1918). His election was provoked by the death of Edward V11 - so in many senses, he represented the entrails of Edwardian England.

This was the last time during which the area was represented by non-Labour MPs. (See here for details of Parliamentary representation for Forest Gate)

Profound social changes during this time, notably the Suffragette movement; and then the war effort by large numbers of working class people, meant that the right to vote could no longer be restricted to reasonably affluent males after World War 1. 

The franchise was extended immediately after the war to embrace almost all men over 21 and women over 30.

The Edwardian era, then, was very much a watershed for politics in Britain. As far as Forest Gate was concerned, activities by the likes of local suffragette, Minnie Baldock (see here and here for details)paved the way for the future votes for women. And posh white men were no longer parachuted in to represent non-labour interests in a largely working class district.


Local suffragette: Minnie Baldock




Forest Gate's last Tory MP:
Ernest Gray: MP 1895 - 1905



Forest Gate's last but one Liberal MP: 
Charles Masterman - 1905 - 1910



Forest Gate's last non-Labour MP, posh
 boy Liberal Baron de Forest, literally
 elected on the death of Edwardian England

Education

The Edwardian era was a transformation time for education, too. The 1902 Education Act meant that the local authority (West Ham Council, then) took over responsibility for education for the first time.

Local authorities began to set higher standards and drive out some of the old "Dame" schools - that were often little more than child minding agencies.

See here for our history of early formal education in Forest Gate, and here for a fuller account of the history of St Angela's.

Below we show and advert from 1900 for the sale of one of the old Dame schools, on Claremont Road - quite how long it survived the establishment of the education authority, we do not know. 

There is also a photograph from Odessa school - one of the old Board schools, soon to become council-controlled, also around 1900 - showing, by today's standards, gross over crowding.

St Angela's, in comparison, was well provided for, in terms of having a science lab (in 1907!) and a delightful garden (1910).


School for sale! The fate of an old
 Dame school, on Claremont Road 
immediately prior to the local authority
 taking over control of local 
education, in the Edwardian era



All the signs of overcrowding in
 Odessa Road Board school, prior
 to the establishment of the West Ham
 education authority in 1903



But better dressed kids at Godwin school
 at approximately the same time.  Perhaps
 there was prior notice of the photo being
 taken, or it was on a celebration day


Science lab, in a girls school,
 in 1907!!. St Angela's school



Serene gardens for the young ladies of
 St Angela's - 1910. A considerable contrast
 to conditions at the Board school, above.

Religion

Edwardian Forest Gate was, like most of the country, nominally, at least a Christian district, with a small, but important, Jewish community (for a brief history of the community in Forest Gate, see here). Other faiths were barely represented in the area.

We will return to the history church life in the area in future posts, but suffice to say that in the second half of the nineteenth century all the major denominations of the Christian church had firmly established themselves, with large, commanding churches in the area.

A wander around Forest Gate in 1910 would have provided convincing evidence that it was a thriving Christian community, with a strong Jewish presence, as the following, contemporary photos indicate.


St Antony's Catholic church, 1904


Congregationalist church, Romford Road, c 1900


Emmanuel CofE church, Romford Road, 1907



Woodgrange Baptist church, Romford Road, 1907




Woodgrange Methodist church,
 Woodgrange Road - 1908



Exterior of West Ham synagogue,
 Earlham Grove c 1900

Transport

Trains and trams were, by the Edwardian era, long-established forms of transport, serving what had rapidly become the commuter suburb of Forest Gate. We have covered their histories, here and here, respectively on this blog, previously.

Below are a few photos of them, in action, in the area in the first decade of the twentieth century. They continued to dominate local transport for the next couple of decades.

One form of transport - commercial - was facing huge changes, however.

Motorised commercial vehicles, supplying local shops and residents became the norm in Britain by the 1930's.  Just two decades earlier, however, hand carts were very much in existence and evident as the main vehicles for local traders. They were, however, facing, unanticipated, extinction during the Edwardian era.

Below, we add a few of these, as they would have been very much part of the local street scene, which would, of course have been almost totally devoid of cars at the time.



 Forest Gate station, exterior - with tram, 1906



 Forest Gate station, interior, 1906



 Woodgrange Park station, exterior - 1904


 Wanstead Flats to Plaistow tram, 1907


 Tram terminus, Bective Road, c 1903


Robertson and Woodcock - forerunner
 to Trebor's (Katherine Road) - 
delivery horse and cart, c 1907





Webster's handcart, by Woodgrange
 Park station, c 1909


Edward Spraggs, bread delivery round
 for Burnett and Sons c 1912



Forest Gate bakers, c 1905
























































































Newham Heritage Week (24 Oct - 30 Oct) and Rabbits Road library launch (22 Oct)

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Newham Heritage Week is being jointly staged by Newham Council and the Museum for Newham group. This post is dedicated to it, and to the opening of a new library at the Rabbits Road Institute (former Manor Park library, in the period 22 - 30 October.

To show our parochialism, we highlight all Forest Gate heritage week activities in bold type.

Pre-heritage week activities


In the run up to the week, there are some other events being organised by the council for both adults and youngsters.

Thurs 20 October. 10 – 11am. East Ham Library. Heritage-themed coffee morning. Chat about the past and learn about the fascinating history of the area over a nice hot brew and some scrumptious nibbles. You can also pick up free copies of The Newham Story and special Heritage Week postcards, bespoke to the area. All welcome.

Fri 21 October. 5.30 - 6.30pm. East Ham Library. Great War craft activity. Children are invited to this craft session dedicated to Newham's Great War exhibition being shown. Children will create ration cards and war time posters and learn what it was like to be living in Newham at the time of the Great War.  Ages 7-11.

Fri 21 October. 6.30 - 7.30pm. East Ham Library. Great War drama workshop. As part of Newham's Great War Exhibition children are invited to participate in a workshop to recreate the sounds and drama. Ages 7-11.

Fri 21 October. 7.30 - 10pm. North Woolwich Learning Zone. Pearlies, Pies and Pints, Pie & Mash, a Cockney sing-a-long and a tea dance. All welcome.

Pearlie king and queens - join in the fun

Sat 22 October. 2 -3pm. Theatre Square (Stratford). Shakespeare in the Square. Experience historic Theatre Square Stratford like never before, with Signed by-Shakespeare in this deaf-led production celebrating Shakespeare. The event features outdoor performances of his sonnets, scenes and soliloquies. It is part of the 400th anniversary of William Shakespeare's death and will reinterpret his works in a contemporary setting and format for Newham Heritage Week. Sign language, mime and dance will be merged into physical theatre to make the performance particularly accessible and enjoyable for people with hearing impairments and small children. 
Delivered by The New Black Film Collective in partnership with Definitely Theatre, Artistic Directors of the Future, Dandy Theatre Associates and The Hip-Hop Shakespeare Company with support from Theatre Royal, Stratford East and Newham Council. For all ages.

Sat 22 October. 3- 4pm. The Gate Library. Heritage-themed Lego club. Have a go at recreating heritage landmarks with Lego. Ages 5-11.

Sat 22 October. 4 - 6pm. The Gate Library. Children's drawing workshop. Artist Eleanor Pearce will lead children through this fun and engaging heritage-themed workshop, where children will learn to draw heritage buildings and objects using a variety of materials such as pastels, charcoal and drawing pens.  Ages 7-11.


Rabbits Road Institute - new library opening day - Sat 22 October 


The new library at The Rabbits Road Institute (former Manor Park library, 835 Romford Road) is a collection of books nominated by collaborators, friends and participants of projects in Manor Park, over the last 18 months, by the Alternative School of Economics.

The books are wide-ranging in genre and will be available to visitors to the Institute.

An afternoon programme of activities marks the launch of the library, including a screening of a new documentary. 

Rabbits Road Institute - 100 years ago,
 when it was Manor Park library!

For more information on the event, and to book a free place, contact here

Programme


12.30pm The Safe House: The Decline of Ideas. Screening of the new documentary, with a q&a with one of its co-directors, Greta Bellamacina.

2pm Spirit of '66 in 2016: Public libraries and emancipatory services. Talk with Ali Corble and Jo Norup and the Alternative School of Economics.

2pm - 4.30pm Artist Marcus Vater will be creating a series of new drawings to record the event.

4.30pm - 6.00pm Drinks reception and readings from the library. Short readings from selected nominated books. Refreshments from Company Drinks.

e.mail: info@rabbitsroad institute.org. Twitter: @RabbitsRd. Facebook: RabbitsRoadInstitute


Newham Heritage Week - 24 - 30 October 


Most events in Heritage Week are free, some have a small charge. Some have to be pre-booked. Here are the details:


All week


Mon  24 - Sun 30 October. All Newham libraries (see venues for opening times). Community neighbourhoods' historical postcards. Each Newham library will be distributing three unique postcards, depicting their local area in archived images.  Available on request while stocks last.

Mon 24 - Sun 30 October. All Newham libraries, (see venue opening times). Postcard collectors prize draw. Collect all thirty heritage postcards (three from each of Newham’s ten libraries) and be entered into a prize draw for a yearly English Heritage family membership (for two adults and up to 12 children) plus a wealth of heritage themed goodies.

Mon 24 - Sun 30 October. The Gate Library (see opening times). Eric Dawson: The Originals. Opportunity to see an exhibition of artist Eric Dawson's original water colours, painted locally in Newham. The first 50 visitors to the exhibition who show a copy of the Newham Mag (issue 351) will receive a free copy of the book Looking Back by Eric Dawson, a fascinating memoir of growing up in West Ham, packed full of beautiful water colours depicting what life was like back in the early 20th century.

Eric Dawson's Upton Lane, on a Saturday Night


Mon 24 - Sun 30 October. The Gate Library (see venue opening times). Forest Gate Faces. Revealing exhibition detailing the story of Forest Gate residents from the 1890's onwards.

Mon 24 - Sun 30  October. The Gate Library (see venue opening times). The Changing Face of Forest Gate. Informative exhibition about the changing face of Forest Gate, from the nineteenth century onwards.

Mon 24 - Sun 30 October. Beckton Globe Library (see venue for opening times). Keir Hardie exhibition: about the life and times of legendary Newham politician.

Kier Hardie, founder of the Labour
 Party and one-time West Ham MP

Mon  24 - Sun 30 October. Beckton Globe Library (see venue for opening times).  Newham's poets and writers. Exhibition about Newham's poets and writers.

Mon 24 – Sun 30 October. Canning Town Library (see venue opening times). Black Saturday. Find out about what happened to Newham during the Blitz on Black Saturday. The first 50 visitors to the exhibition who show issue 351 of the Newham Mag will receive a free copy of The Newham Story.

Mon 24 - Sun 30 October. Stratford Library (see venue opening times). Newham Sporting Life. Revealing exhibition about Newham's sporting heroes. The first 50 visitors to the exhibition who show issue 351 of the Newham Mag will receive a free copy of The Newham Story.

Walter Tull, one of
Newham's sporting heroes

Mon 24 - Sun 30 October. East Ham Library (see venue opening times). Newham's Great War. Fascinating insight into the part played by Newham and its soldiers during WW1. The first fifty visitors to the exhibition who show Newham Mag 351 will receive a free copy of The Newham Story.

Mon 24 - Sun 30 October. Manor Park Library (see venue opening times). I belong to Newham. Famous faces from Newham come to life in this informative and inspiring exhibition.

Mon 24 - Sun 30 October. Green Street Library (see venue opening times). Eric Dawson: the West Ham exhibition. Captivating exhibition about local artist Eric Dawson and his images of the West Ham area.

Mon 24 - Sun 30 October. North Woolwich Library (see venue opening times). Women and Protest. Exhibition about women and their part in protest movements which have affected Newham.

Prominent suffragette and one-time
 Newham resident, Annie Kenney

Mon 24 - Sun 30 October. Stratford Library (see venue opening times). Bengali East End Heritage Society Exhibition. Art exhibition by local artist and curator Saif Osmani and the Bengali East End Heritage Society. The art exhibition looks at contested boundaries, community tension and spaces deemed under threat due to an ever increasing amount of building and development in East London.

Mon 24 - Sun 30 October. East Ham Library (see venue opening times). Faith in Newham Exhibition. History and impact of the churches, synagogues, mosques and temples of Newham.

West Ham Synagogue, Earlham Grove -
 part of the Faith in Newham exhibition

Mon 24 - Sat 29 October. 9.30am - 8pm. Stratford Library. Amrar Zaga (Our Place) - Art Exhibition, by local artist and curator Saif Osmani and the Bangali East End Heritage Society. The art exhibition looks at contested boundaries, community tension and spaces deemed under threat, due to an ever increasing amount of building and development in East London. 

Mon 24 -  Fri 28th October. 10am - 1pm. Tuesday and Thursday evenings 6pm - 8pm. River Christian Centre, Vincent Street, Canning Town. Exhibitions on Canning Town from WW1 to the 1980s. Chance to see Grade II listed chapel with stained glass windows and architectural features. 

Mon 24 - Fri 28 October. 2 - 4pm. House Mill, Three Mill Island, Bromley by Bow. Daily guided tour of two floors of the Grade I listed House Mill. Tours at 2pm and 3pm. Lasting approx 30 mins. Please bring proof of LBN residency to enjoy free of charge. The cafe in the Miller's House will be open, serving tea and cake.


Monday

Mon 24 October. 11am - 1pm. Little Ilford Learning Zone. Museum on Wheels. Celebrate and enjoy Newham's heritage through Eastside Heritage's unique museum on wheels.

Mon 24 October. 1.30 - 4.30pm. North Woolwich Library. Heritage games. Come along and play heritage games from the early 20th century. All welcome. 

Mon 24 October. 3.15 - 5.15pm. Meet: DLR ticket office/machines London City Airport DLR station. The ASTA trail, Silvertown: trains, planes and graffiti walls. An audio trail of Silvertown, created by young people at the ASTA Centre and composer Jo Thomas, featuring original music and interviews with local residents - a unique insight in to the history of Silvertown. Email Dr Toby Butler t.butler@uel.ac.uk. Limited places - booking essential. Led by Dr Toby Butler and students of UEL. Audio equipment provided. Distance of 3.5km. 

London City Airport, a feature
 of this Silvertown tour

Mon October. 24 from 5 - 7pm. The Gate Library,. The launch event is called Indulge with the rich heritage of Newham. It opens with a rare opportunity to see Eric Dawson’s original artworks of Newham, see local exhibitions, meet heritage professionals and enthusiasts and pick up a free copy of The Newham Story, while stocks last. 


Tuesday


Tues 25 October. 10am - 3.30pm. Stratford Library. West Ham Oral Histories (Children) . If you are a young West Ham fan then this is for you. In this one day workshop you will learn the unique skill of recording oral histories and take part in an inter-generational workshop, to record memories from the Boleyn and beyond. Booking essential. Please contact Stratford Library. Ages 9-11.

West Ham legend, Bobby Moore -
opportunities for you to share your
recollections of him, and other
 West Ham greats, over the years

Tues 25 October. 10am – 3.30pm. Stratford Library. West Ham Oral Histories (Adults). Do you have a long list of memories and experiences from your time as a Hammers fan? If so come along to this inter-generational workshop and share your most treasured moments. These memories will be recorded for future generations and become part of West Ham United's archives. Please bring along a treasured piece of your West Ham memorabilia to show and tell. Booking essential. Please contact Stratford Library. Ages 30+ years.

Tues 25 October. 11am - 1pm. Plaistow Library. Children's heritage themed greeting card workshop. Children will create their own greeting cards adorned with places and faces from Newham's history. Ages 5-11.

Tues 25 October. 11am -12.30pm. Custom House Library. Heritage-themed coffee morning. Chat about the past and learn about the fascinating history of the area over a nice hot brew and some scrumptious nibbles. You can also pick up free copies of The Newham Story and special Heritage Week postcards, bespoke to the local area. All welcome.

Tue 25 October. 11am Heritage Walking Tour: Olympic Park. A 1.5 hour (approx) walk using oral histories. Meet at Mocha East Vue Tube. Free, but pre-booking essential: email Eastside Heritage: office@ech.org.uk.. 

Tues 25 October. 2pm. London Personally Heritage Walk - how E15 became E20. Meeting point outside Stratford Station by the Robert Engine. Finish point Pudding Lane DLR Station.. No part of London has gone through more changes than Stratford the shopping and transport hub of Newham. On the ancient road from London to Colchester the area takes its name from the ancient abbey on the River Lea. With the coming of the railways in the 1840’s industry grew up around the old town and by the end of the 19th century Stratford had become an important trading shopping and political centre with some of Newham’s best Victorian and Edwardian buildings.  Its history and struggles and the effects of bringing the Olympics to the area with stunning new architecture and the Queen Elizabeth Park will all be taken in on this walk. Stan Harris - info@londonpersonally.co.uk. £10 per head. To book: https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/how-e15-became-e20-tickets-28141163979.

Tues 25 October. 4 - 5pm. House Mill, Three Mill Island, Bromley by Bow. From Gin and Vice to Tea and Temperance. A talk by Eleanor Bloom, a senior volunteer at House Mill, a registered City Guide and member of London Historians. Eleanor will talk and present the story of this important episode in London's social history, during which there will be tea and biscuits; but not gin and vice! 


Wednesday


Weds 26 October.11am - 12.30pm. The Gate Library. Heritage- themed coffee morning. Chat about the past and learn about the fascinating history of the area over a nice hot brew and some scrumptious nibbles. You can also pick up free copies of The Newham Story and special Heritage Week postcards, bespoke to the area. All welcome. 

Weds 26 October. 1 - 3.30pm. Meet: King George V DLR station. The North Woolwich Trail: Deep Water. An audio trail featuring the sound and voices of the River Thames and Newham Docklands as you follow a route through the three former Royal Docks. Email Dr Toby Butler t.butler@uel.ac.uk. Limited places - booking essential. Audio equipment provided. Distance of 3.5km. Guided by Dr Toby Butler and students of UEL.

Weds 26 October. 1.45 - 6pm. Green Street Festival  (taking place in Queen's Market). Children's heritage-themed greeting card workshop. Children will create their own greeting cards adorned with places and faces from Newham's history. Ages 5-11. 

Weds 26 October. 2 - 4pm. Beckton Globe. Museum on Wheels. Celebrate and enjoy Newham's heritage through Eastside Heritage's unique museum on wheels. Free entry. 

Weds 26 October. 3 - 4pm. House Mill Three Mill Island, Bromley by Bow. Sharing Stories. House Mill resident storyteller Shamim Azad, a Bangladeshi born British bilingual poet, storyteller and writer will be with us for this unique event. Shamim is part of the East End storytelling group, which invites local residents to join in sharing some the stories brought together by the East End's rich, diverse history of immigration. We invite Newham's older residents (50+) to hear Shamim's stories and to tell your own.

Three Mill Island - by the Bow flyover

Weds 26 October. 4pm. Forest Gate Learning Zone, Woodgrange Road. West Ham United Football Club Reminiscence Session. Come along and share memories of The Irons. Free.

Weds 26 October. 6.30 - 7.30pm. East Ham Library. Faith in Newham. Dr Colin Marchant presents a lecture about historic the faith buildings of Newham. All welcome.

Weds 26 October. 6.45pm. The Gate Library. Lecture - Forest Gate: Growth of a Victorian Suburb. Illustrated talk by local historians Peter Williams and Mark Gorman. Gentrification is a big word in Forest Gate now, with the coming of CrossRail, but research shows that there have been waves of gentrification and de-gentrification over the last 140 years, often influenced by among other things, the railway companies, their advertising and fare pricing structure, and their links to housing developers. How exactly did Forest Gate develop? Who were the equivalents of Barretts and Wimpey's? Come along, and find out. Entry by free ticket - only available from The Gate beforehand. Refreshments on sale.
Forest Gate station at the turn of 20th
 century, catalyst for so much local
 gentrification, over the decades

Thursday


Thurs 27 October. 10.45am - 12noon. Canning Town Library. Heritage- themed coffee morning. Chat about the past and learn about the fascinating history of the area over a nice hot brew and some scrumptious nibbles. You can also pick up free copies of The Newham Story and special Heritage Week postcards, bespoke to the area. All welcome.

Thurs 27 October. 11am. Brick Lane Music Hall 443 North Woolwich Road, North Woolwich.  Open morning - a chance to see the Brick Lane Music Hall - a Grade II listed building and learn about the history of music hall in East London, from Vincent Hayes the founder and director of Brick Lane Music Hall (500m from Pontoon Dock DLR station). Booking essential. Email kjenservices@hotmail.com. Refreshments provided.

Thurs 27 October. 11am Talk: A Brief History of Theatre Royal.(lasts approx 30 mins + short Q&A).  Stratford. Theatre Royal Stratford East (auditorium stalls).  Built in 1884, renovated by Frank Matcham in 1902, and home to Joan Littlewood's world-famous Theatre Workshop Company, Theatre Royal has been entertaining audiences for 131 years. Murray Melvin, Theatre Royal Stratford East's honorary archivist and member of Joan Littlewood's Theatre Workshop, gives a special talk on the history of this much loved Grade II listed building in the heart of Gerry Raffles Square. Free. Booking advised via box office on 020 8534 0310 (some places available on the day on a first come, first served basis).

The recently unveiled sculpture of Joan
 Littlewood, outside the Theatre Royal, Stratford


Thurs 27 October. 11am - 5.30pm. Beckton Globe. Building Beckton’s industrial heritage. Participants will review archival images and present day photographs of the Beckton Sewage Works, The Chimney and Cyprus Estates. In response they will recreate the buildings, using papier mache, card, and paper  to create a display mini exhibition. Ages 8-11 years with parents welcome. 

Thurs 27 October. 1 - 2pm. Theatre Royal Stratford East (Murray Melvin Meeting Room). Open archive - a chance to see some of Theatre Royal's Archive Collection, with Murray Melvin, Theatre Royal Stratford East's honorary archivist and member of Joan Littlewood's Theatre Workshop. openarchive@stratfordeast.com.  Note:. free, but places limited to 10 on a first come, first served basis. Booking: openarchive@stratfordeast.com or 020 8279 1131.

Thurs 27 October. 1 - 3pm.  Canning Town Library. Children's Heritage-themed greeting card workshop. Children will create their own greeting cards adorned with places and faces from Newham's history. Ages 5-11.

Thurs 27 October. 1.30pm. London Personally Heritage Walk - Monks, Sewage and Iron. Start point Bromley-by-Bow Station, finishing point Star Lane Station (DLR). Stan Harris  will be leading this walk, broadly along the River Lea and West Ham. It explores how Newham developed from  rural countryside to East London’s industrial heartland. Next to the gritty industrial history, stories of ancient monasteries and London’s finest example of Victorian engineering you will also be able to enjoy much of the Art Trail on this part of the Lea and have a rest and refreshments at a riverside community café at Cody Dock at around 3.30pm. Stan Harris - info@londonpersonally.co.uk. £10 per head. To Book: https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/monks-sewage-and-iron-tickets-28140981433 

Thurs 27 October. 2 - 4pm. The West Silvertown Trail: gun powder, flour and flood. Meet: Main entrance Excel Centre (Custom House DLR station). An exciting audio trail includes the beauty of Barrier Park, the horror of the biggest explosion ever to rock London and first-hand accounts of working lives in the riverside factories and flour mills. Email Dr Toby Butler t.butler@uel.ac.uk Limited places - booking essential. Audio equipment provided. Distance 2km walk guided by Dr Toby Butler and students of UEL. 

Aftermath of the 1917
Silvertown explosion

Thurs 27 October. 6pm Shipman Youth Centre. Share your memories of Silvertown and North Woolwich. Organised by Eastside Heritage: office@ech.org.uk. Free.

Thurs 27 October. 6.30 - 8pm. House Mill Three Mill Island, Bromley by Bow. Guided Tours of House Mill with Gin Tasting. Join us at House Mill to tour this spectacular Grade I listed building, to learn about its role in the C18th "Gin Craze" and to sample a range of London Gins. To reserve a place please email: info@housemill.org.uk. There is a token charge of £5 per person. Owing to space restrictions within the heritage building, this event has only a number limited of spaces.

Thurs 27 October.  7pm: University of East London, University Square, 1 Salway Road, Stratford. Film Screening and Discussion - Foreign Pickers by Kathrin Bohm (My Villages) for Company Drinks, in collaboration with Sue Giovanni. This screening will be accompanied by a talk by Kathrin Bohm and Dr Toby Butler, University of East London, discussing the history and heritage of hop picking and Kathrin's ongoing project, Company, Movements, Deals and Drinks. Two new Company Drinks beverages which resulted in East London pickers going to Kent in 2016 will be also available: a Thinning Soda and a Gleaned Cider. Further details: t.butler@uel.ac.uk. Free, no need to book.

Thurs 27 October. 7pm. Shipman Youth Centre  Talk by historian Graham Hill on the Silvertown Explosion. Organised by Eastside Heritage: office@ech.org.uk. Free.


Friday


Fri 28 October. 11am. Heritage Walking Tour: Olympic Park. A 1.5 hour (approx) walk using oral histories. Meet at Mocha East Vue Tube. Free, but pre-booking essential: email Eastside Heritage: office@ech.org.uk.

Fri 28 October. 11am - 1pm. Manor Park Library. Children's heritage-themed greeting card workshop. Children will create their own greeting cards adorned with places and faces from Newham's history. Ages 5-11.

Fri 28th October. 6.30-7.45pm. East Ham Library. Morris Dancing Performances. Traditional Morris dancing performances for all to enjoy. All ages welcome.


Saturday


Sat 29 October. 1 - 3pm. The Gate Library. Children's heritage-themed drawing workshop. Artist Eleanor Pearce will lead children through this fun and engaging  heritage themed workshop, where they will learn to draw heritage buildings and objects, using a variety of materials such as pastels, charcoal and drawing pens. Ages 4-6.

Sat 29 October. 12noon - 4pm. East Ham Library. Children's heritage-themed greeting card workshop. Children will create their own greeting cards adorned with places and faces from Newham's history. Ages 5-11.

Sat 29 October. 12noon - 4pm. East Ham Library. Newham Heritage Awareness Day. End of week, borough-wide heritage awareness day. The day will have something for all ages and interests including information stalls, exhibitions, pop up museum and a chance to give your views on a future Museum for Newham. Kevin Jenkins: kjenservices@hotmail.com. Free entry.

Sat 29 October. 3 - 4pm. The Gate Library. Heritage-themed Lego club. Have a go at recreating Heritage landmarks with Lego. Ages 5-11.

Sat 29 and Sun 30 October. Abbey Mills Pumping Station, Abbey Lane (Tours on: Saturday 29th October at 11am, Noon, 1pm, 2pm and 3pm Sunday 30th October at 11am, Noon, 1pm, 2pm and 3pm. Pre-booking only before 5pm on Monday 24 October. Built between 1865 and 1866, it is often described as the Cathedral of Sewage. A rare opportunity of a guided tour of this magnificent building. To book email Kevin at kjenservices@hotmail.com stating preferred date, time and number of spaces required.


Abbey Mills pumping station -
 "The Cathedral of Sewage"

Sunday


Sun 30 October. 2 - 4pm. Stratford Library. Children's heritage themed greeting card workshop. Children will create their own greeting cards adorned with places and faces from Newham's history. Ages 5-11.

Sun 30 October. 11am - 4pm.  House Mill, Three Mill Island, Bromley by Bow: Guided tours of the Grade I listed House Mill. Visit four of the floors of House Mill with one of our trained volunteer guides. You will learn of House Mill's history and the Trust's plans for its future which will restore the heritage machinery to working order, develop hydro-electricity using the wheels, broaden activities to include a vibrant activity hub for Newham. These plans already include an art gallery, event space, wedding ceremony and reception venue, so come and share them with us!. Please bring proof of LBN residency to enjoy free of charge. The cafe in the Miller's House will be open throughout, serving a range of fresh foods and drinks.

Thanks to all participants and organisations for arranging Newham Heritage Week - the first of which we hope will be a regular event.

In particular, we are thankful to Colin Grainger (www.colin-grainger.co.uk) for putting together this very accessible guide to the multiplicity of events.

We are also grateful to the Rabbits Road Institute for details of their launch, and wish them well.

A nod at our neighbours: Abbey Mills pumping station. Stratford

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Newham's first Heritage Week is over and early impressions were that it was a great success.  For Forest Gate locals the highlights would have included local historians (and significant contributors to this blog) - Peter Williams and Mark Gorman's packed-out (100 people plus)  presentation at The Gate on Gentrification in Forest Gate over the last 170 years. So popular was the talk that they will be re-running it at The Wanstead Tap (see footnote for details), in late November.

Another delight was a rare opportunity to visit Abbey Mills pumping station in Stratford.  This has variously been described as the Cathedral of Sewage, and earlier as the Mosque in the Marshes (to describe its original immediate setting and appearance). It was constructed on the former lands of Stratford's Langthorne Abbey - hence the name.


Woodcut of the original building,
 with minaret-like chimneys

The photos in this blog, gleaned from a number of sources (to whom we express our gratitude), illustrate why the visit was such a delight.  Details of how you may be able to gain access, in the future, are in the footnote.


"The Cathedral of Sewage" - today

For centuries London was drained by the various rivers, such as the Fleet, Tyburn and Hounds Ditch that ran into the Thames.  With the great growth of population in the nineteenth century and the development of rudimentary forms of toilets and running water, the Thames began to fill with raw sewerage, causing major public health problems.


Tour of the "Mosque in the
marshes", soon after its opening
 This culminated in what became known as "The Big Stink" in 1858, where the pungency was so great immediately outside Parliament, that the politicians moved out temporarily to Cornwall, to avoid it.

The Metropolitan Board of Works, one of the earlier manifestations of London-wide local government, commissioned its chief engineer Joseph Bazalgette to find a way of addressing the problem.


Joseph Bazalgette's, whose
 sewerage  system ended
 at Abbey Mills

His solution was gloriously simple, although it took a major civil engineering feat to implement.  It was to build a huge system of sewers which took the sewerage from central London to the far reaches of the Thames and deposit it there, where it was then pumped (untreated) into the Lower reaches of the Thames.




Stratford, Forest Gate and surrounding areas were seen at the time as being almost literally beyond the pale.  London moved all its smelly problems and potential health hazards to this land beyond the River Lea.  So "stinky industries" were driven to what more recently has become the Olympic Park area, sewerage to Abbey Mills and Beckton and cemeteries to Forest Gate and surrounds - where there are five.


Prestigious party gathers for the opening
 of a sewage works' pumping station
 - an unlikely sounding caption

Bazalgette's scheme most dramatically pushed the Thames back from its original shores in central London (The Strand) to its current limit - the Embankment - and a systems of sewers was constructed under the reclaimed land. These sewers continued until they reached the site of the pumping station in Stratford.




The engineering feat was remarkable, and conducted within seven years. But the significance of the achievement was buried under ground.  To celebrate its importance, the Abbey Mills pumping station was erected - at the end of the sewers - as a magnificent building, and testimony to the considerable engineering feat.




The rest of this blog concentrates on the architecture of the site, rather than the engineering, about which much has been written elsewhere.

The mills were constructed at a then cost of £200,000; a very considerable sum, considering the whole of the sewer system that ended its course there only cost £3million.




Bazalgette explained the need for pumping stations, rather than simply allowing the sewage to flow unassisted into the Thames:


The fall in the Thames isn't above three inches; for sewage we want a couple of feet (in order to ensure that the sewers are self cleaning), and that kept taking us down below the river and when we got to a certain depth we had to pump up again. It was certainly a very troublesome job
 We would sometimes spend weeks in drawing out plans and then suddenly come across a railway or canal that upset everything, and we had to begin all over again. It was tremendously hard work.


The station employed up to 300 workers in the late nineteenth century. Mechanisation, improved fuelling systems and modern technology mean that none is  currently employed on the station, on a full-time basis - although this "de-labouring" of the site is presently under review.




It was not until 1998 that the pumping station (much modified) was eventually replaced by the aluminium shed like structure, on the same site, that operates today.

The Bazalgette building is  Grade 2 listed. It has the lay-out of a Greek cross and the walls are faced with Suffolk brick. There are many arched windows on the faces and the roof has dormer windows and is constructed of slate. A lantern with a colonnade rises from the centre of the building.




The overall style owes something to that of an Orthodox church (it is not clear why this design was chosen).  What makes it exceptional is the lavish use of costly materials and ornamentation, such as decorative porches, sculpted masonry, encaustic wall tiles (where the coloured sections run as deep as the tile - rather like sticks of rock), patterned lead and gilded crests.

Most impressive is the internal ornamental ironwork



.
There were two huge chimneys (about 200 feet high) to clear the smoke from the original coal-fired boiler house that fuelled the pumps.  These were taken down in 1941, for fear that they would be bombed and the resulting damage disable the rest of the pumping station.


Stumps left of former chimneys
Other contemporaneous buildings include the Superintendent's house - currently being restored and a number of semi detached (and very desirable) former workers' houses, which fetch up to £900,000 on the property market today.


Superintendent's house, today

The architect was Charles Driver (1832 - 1900), who specialised in engineering based work, especially railways. For reasons that are not clear, he chose to incorporate six different styles of architecture into the buildings - in a way in which no other Victorian building does.

They are:

Italian Venetian - principally in the arched windows and Venetian corkscrew twist incorporated into the rainwater down drainpipes.


Magnificent arched windows


French Gothic - reflected in the internal iron pillars, and tops of the access towers to the beam engines.


Internal iron pillars


Flemish - the influence seen in the steeply pitched roofs.


Steeply pitched roofs


Byzantine/Moorish - shown in the venting chimneys (now gone - see above), which looked like minarets.

Russian orthodox - evident in the cupola, or lantern.


Looking upwards to the cupola
Celtic - seen in brass and copper florets on the east wing doorway.


Splendid doorways
From its origins until the 1930's the pumping station was steam drive, when electricity took over. The original pumping system was effective replaced in 1998 by the modern aluminium structure, but acts as an overflow, during heavy storms, or as a backup, when repairs and maintenance need to be undertaken on the new equipment.




Footnotes

1 Mark and Peter's  popular talk on the Gentrification of Forest Gate will be repeated at the Wanstead Tap on 30 November - see here for tickets (£3), which are in great demand. 




2 Abbey Mills pumping station is rarely open for public viewing, which seems a great pity. Newham Heritage Week organisers managed to get a weekend's viewing for Newham residents during the event.  It was oversubscribed.  The annual London Open House event features tours of the pumping station.  But this can be very heavily oversubscribed too.  For further details and booking, see here.


Difficult to gain a visit, but well worth it

3.One of Joseph Bazalgette's great-great-grandsons is Sir Peter Bazalgette, currently chair of ITV.  In his time he has also been chair of the Arts Council and prior to that was the man that brought Big Brother to British television. 
Sir Peter Bazalgette -
descendant of Joseph

The standing joke at the time was a version of what goes around comes around. Joseph Bazalgette pumped the shit out of London, while his great-great grandson pumped it in. Ho, ho, ho!

140 -150 Earlham Grove - regeneration plans

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Six months after proposals for redeveloping 39a - 49a Woodgrange Road (see here for details) comes plans for an ambitious development on Earlham Grove (between the footprint for the other development referred to, above and the boundary of the Community Garden).

A combination of these plans, of course, put the final nail in the coffin of the former Obsidian proposals for the area, although, as will be seen, below, there is an interesting carry through of involvement.

The developments, combined, provide more evidence, if ever needed, of the massive regeneration and house price hike for Forest Gate, in advance of the coming of CrossRail to town, in 2019 (see here, for details).



This proposal comes from a consortium of Mura Estates (www.mura-estates.co.uk) and the Aitch Group (www. http://www.aitchgroup.com) - which are very similar companies, sharing a Shoreditch head office, having almost identical websites and sharing involvement in a number of projects.

The associated architects are Buckley, Gray, Yeoman Architects. They are a large firm of architects, with commissions across London, Britain, Europe and beyond.

Like the builder/developers, they are based in Shoreditch.  Intriguingly they were associated with the now abandoned and much derided Obsidian proposals for Forest Gate of 4 years ago.  They haven't taken this down from their website (www.buckleygrayyeoman.com/project/forest-gate), so perhaps they still hope it is alive, or will be using aspects of it for the Earlham Grove plan.

The consortium have had boards up, advertising their presence for some time.

The footprint runs behind the shops on Woodgrange Road and surfaces at the gates next to Percy Ingle's on Woodgrange Road (see diagram on leaflet).



This strip of land seems very thin and is probably no more than an access route proposal.

The consortium is holding a consultation evening on 23 November, at Durning Hall - see copy of leaflet, for details.

We have written to the developers offering them space on this page to lay out their proposals.  We have yet to hear from them, but will treat what they say with respect - and without editorial judgement, as we feel that this is the best way of conducting a dialogue about an important project for our locality.

Whether they respond or not, we will update this post after 23 November with more detailed about their proposals and projected timetable, following the consultation session, as we did earlier this year with the Woodgrange Road project. That post has attracted about 1600 page views and provoked about 30 comments.

Their leaflet, advertising the consultation session is high on rhetoric and low on detail.  It says:

We will take this opportunity to present our emerging proposals for the redevelopment of the site.  The site is currently vacant and hoarded and detracts from the local environment.
 Our proposals are for high quality residential redevelopment comprising the delivery of new homes to the area and delivering on the Council's regeneration ambitions.
The event is for local residents, businesses and stakeholders to discuss the proposals with the project team and provide any views and comments.
We have had a quick survey of the websites of the three partners associate with the Earlham Grove project: Mura, Aitch and the architects. As noted above, Mura and Aitch overlap hugely in their profile, and in their projects too.

They have been in business since 1995 and deal mainly in residential and commercial developments in London and the South East.

Among the residential developments they have promoted in the East London area have been a 36 apartment block in Bow Road, just completed, with all but two flats sold (these are on the market at £500k each).

They are involved with 2 developments on Fish Island (45 residential units on Monier Road, due for completion in 2018) and 100 units on Dace Road. The architects of these were also Buckley et al.

The architects, established in 1997, have a very large portfolio.  They seem to be the "house" architects for Fred Perry and include their store in Westfield in their portfolio.  They also undertake a number of projects for Nandos.

Their other East London projects include Forest School, in Walthamstow, the Q Building in central Stratford and a development in Pier Road in North Woolwich.

We will add further details about the Earlham Grove proposals, here,  as they become available.

Meanwhile, feel free to add comments below, in order to keep a healthy debate and source of information about this project live, until it is delivered, or aborted.

Meanwhile, an update on 39a - 49a Woodgrange Road (to follow)


Life in a Forest Gate week

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A recent post featured a rather special seven day period in Newham - the borough's first Heritage Week.  This one features a rather more ordinary week, in the life of Forest Gate. 

Our listings column (right) tries to focus on one-off events, or music within Forest Gate.  We are always pleased to add YOUR event, free of charge, of course; just drop a line to info@E7-NowAndThen.org.

The listings section, however, omits details of  those dozens of activities that run as regularly as clockwork within the area. Many of them have emerged as initiatives initiated by recent "gators", or in-coming gentrifiers.
  
But, an equal number, are long-standing sessions that have helped make the area what it is, for years.  Many of these are provided by or with Aston-Mansfield, at Durning Hall on Earlham Grove, or at The Gate, by Newham Council.

Below we offer a list of regular weekly activities in Forest Gate. We have deliberately omitted education/training courses and religious-related activities - these would take a lengthy post in their own right.

Some of the events listed are free of charge and others incur a cost. If in doubt, call before attending.  We provide a list of providers/venues and their contact details at the end of the blog.

If any of the details in this list are wrong, or change, please let us know and we will amend the listings.  If new regular events are started up, we will be happy to add them to the list.

The aim is to keep the details up-to-date, so that the blog can be an ongoing and accurate listing of Forest Gate regular events. We will notify updates via Twitter (@E_7nowandthen).

We will follow this blog in a couple of blogs time with a week's eating and drinking in Forest Gate - and pretty mouth-watering it should be , too!


Monday

9.00am - 3.00pm Woodgrage Baptist church. Baby/Toddler group.

9.30am - 12.30pm Durning Hall. Tender cubs (pre-school).

10.15am Corner Kitchen. Toddler music, for the under 5's. This and other classes listed below are put on by local mums; they are drop in £5 charge.

11.00am - 12 noon. The Gate. Tai Chi in the park. Forest Lane Park, meet Magpie Lodge.

11.00am - 4.00pm The Gate. Table Tennis

4.00pm- 6.00pm Durning Hall. East London School of Dance: ballet, modern and tap (3yrs - 18).

4.00pm - 7.30pm The Gate. Table TennisMeet new p[eople and try your hand (children).

6.00pm - 8.00pm. Durning Hall. Shpresa Programme (mentoring and dancing workshops).

6.30pm - 7.30pm The Space East. Beginners Pilates (other times available during the week, contact Space East for details and prices).

7.00pm - 10.00pm Forest Tavern. Swing Dancin'Get dancing with Swing Patrol - swing dancing; no partner required. £10.


Forest Tavern - Swing Dance on a Monday night

8.00pm - 9.30pm Durning Hall. Kick boxing.


Tuesday

9.15 - 10.30am Space East. Beginners Yoga (other times available during week, contact Space East for details and prices).

9.30am - 12.30pm Durning Hall. Tender cubs (pre-school).

10.00am Forest Tavern. Gate Yoga: Traditional Hatha Yoga (suitable for all levels).

10.30am - 11.30am The Gate. Story telling; story and rhyme session for children upto 5 years old.

11.30am - 12.30pm The Gate. Buggy Fit: Free guided walk to the local park with your buggy. Meet at the library.

1.00pm - 2.00pm The Gate. Adult Chess Club

4.30pm- 7.00pm Durning Hall. East London School of Dance: ballet, modern and tap (3yrs - 18).


Durning Hall, for the East London School of Dance


5.00pm - 6.00pm Space East. Teen Yoga (contact Space East for details).

5.30pm - 7.30pm The Gate. Chess club : play, learn or get help to improve your game. All ages and abilities irrelevant.

6.00pm - 7.00 pm The Gate. Backsercise

6.00pm - 7.15pm Durning Hall. Beavers (boys 6-8).

6.00pm - 7.00pm Durning Hall Swing TrimFit. Scott Cupit's Swing Patrol branches out with a weekly swing dance inspired hour long work out. £5.

6.00pm - 7.00pm Forest Gate Community school. Female only Zumba

7.00pm Forest Gate Methodist Church, Woodgrange Road.  Gate Yoga: Traditional Hatha Yoga (suitable for all levels).

7.30pm - 9.30pm Durning Hall. Wing Chun school of martial arts.

8.00pm - 11.00pm Forest Tavern.Pub quiz. Winner £50, second bottle of wine.


Wednesday

9.00am - 12.noon Woodgrange Baptist church, Women's Health Club

9.30am - 12.30pm Durning Hall. Tender cubs (pre-school).

9.30am Corner Kitchen. Toddler French, for the under 5's. £5 charge.

10.00am CoffeE7, 10 Sebert Road.  Gate Yoga: Traditional Hatha Yoga (suitable for all levels).


CoffeE7 for Yoga on
 a Wednesday morning

3.30pm - 5.00pm The Gate. Games club: Sony, PS3, XBox 360, Nintendo Wii, board games and much more. Free activities for the 7's - 16's.

4.30pm- 6.30pm Durning Hall. East London School of Dance: ballet, modern and tap (3yrs - 18).

4.30pm - 5.30pm. MBox. Try an under 16's boxing class with Mickey (other times available - check website for details, phone for prices - see below).


Boxing, with Mickey from Mbox


8.00pm - 9p.00m Durning Hall. Wing Chien school of martial arts.

8.00pm 11.00pm Red House, Upton Lane. Jazz@St Ants. New performers each week. Reasonable priced drinks. £3.


Thursday


9.30am - 12.30pm Durning Hall. Baby massage music for the under 5's. £5 charge.

9.30am - 12 noon. Woodgrage Baptist church. Baby/Toddler Group.

1.00pm - 3.00 Woodgrange Baptist church. Foodbank

3.00pm  Corner Kitchen. Toddler music, for the under 5's. £5 charge.

4.00pm - 6.00pm Durning Hall. Kick boxing.

4.00pm - 6.00pm The Gate. Science ClubJoin the club, carry out interactive experiments, watch demos and record results.

4.00pm - 6.00pm The Gate. Children's movie club. Free screenings for children aged 7 - 16 (under 8's must be accompanied by an adult). Advanced notification of films given. Advanced bookings essential.


Children's movie club at The Gate

6.15pm - 7.45 The Gate. Yoga; exercise for physical and mental well-being.


Friday


9.30am - 12.30pm Durning Hall. Tender cubs (pre-school).

10.00am - 4.00pm Community Garden, 138 Earlham Grove. Open for assisting or viewing: with a children's and a quiet area, for reading. You will be encouraged to sign up as a member.

10.00am Corner Kitchen. Toddler drama, for the under 5's. £5 charge.

10.30am - 11.30am Space East. Mums Yoga with babies, level 1 (contact Space East for full details).


Space East for mums and babies
 yoga on a Friday morning
11.00am - 1.00pm The Gate. ICT drop-in session. Learn how to create your own email account and set up a My Newham profile.

11 am. - 12.30pm The Gate. Tai Chi in the park. Low impact class, combining deep breathing and relaxation with slow and gentle movement to improve muscle strength. Forest Lane Park. Meet Magpie Lodge.

11.00am - 2.00pm Durning Hall. House of Love. Over 50's club.

12. noon - 4.00pm Woodgrage Baptist church. Lunch club and drop-in.

12.30pm - 2.30pm Durning Hall. East African Muslim cultural group.

12.30pm - 2.30pm Durning Hall. Newham Gambian Association.

1.00pm - 4.00pm. Forest Gate Community Garden, Earlham Grove, open for volunteering, or just a stroll.

1.30pm - 3.30pm The Gate. Bumps and babies - free activities for the under 5's.

4.30pm - 5.30pm Durning Hall. Think Big (drama class).

5.00pm  - 6.30pm Durning Hall. Folk in Motion (wheelchair dancing for the over 50's).

6.30pm - 8.15pm Durning Hall. Cubs (boys 8 -10).

8.00pm - 9.30 Durning Hall. Scouts (boys 11 - 15).


Saturday

9.30am -3,30pm Durning Hall. East London School of Dance (ballet, modern and tap; 3years - 18).

9.30am  Corner Kitchen. Toddler ballet, for the under 5's. £5 charge.


2 sessions of Toddler ballet
 at Corner Kitchen on Saturdays
10.00am - 11.30am Woodgrange Baptist church. Football academy.

10.00am - 1.00pm Woodgrange Market - corner of Woodgrange and Sebert Roads.

10.00am - 1.00pm Community Garden, 138 Earlham Grove. Open for assisting or viewing: with a children's and a quiet area, for reading. You will be encouraged to sign up as a member.

10.00am - 12. noon Durning Hall. Irish dancing academy (all ages).

10.15am  Corner Kitchen. Toddler ballet, for the under 5's. £5 charge.

10.30am - 12.30pm The Gate. Homework club: free study support during term time for children aged 7 - 14.

10.45am -1.30pm Durning Hall. Tender cubs (pre-school).

11.45am - 2.30pm Durning Hall. Alcoholics Anonymous.

2.30pm - 4.00pm The Gate.  Keep fit to Salsa.

3.00pm - 4.00pm Durning Hall. Wing Chun school of martial arts.

2.30pm - 4.30pm The Gate. Salsa. Dance yourself and keep fit while learning Latin and Salsa moves, without the need for a dance partner.


Sunday

10.30am - 12.30pm Durning Hall. Kick boxing.

10.00am - 11.30am MBox. Try and Open Gym/Boxing circuit with Edward at MBox (other times available, check their website for times, and phone for prices - see below).


Contacts

Community Garden: www.forestgate-community-garden.org.uk, @FGCommGarden

Corner Kitchen, 58 Woodgrange Road:  020 8555 8068, www.cornerkitchen.London, @cornerkitchenlondon

Durning Hall, Earlham Grove: 020 8536 3800, www.aston-mansfield.org.uk. @A_Mcomms

Forest Tavern,  173 Forest Lane: 020 8503 0868, www.foresttavern.com

The Gate, 2-6 Woodgrange Road:  020-3373-0856, www.Newham.gov.uk

Gate Yoga: Gate7yoga@gmail.com

MBox ,488 The Arches, Cranmer Road:  07952486062. www.mboxing.co.uk. @mboxlondon

Swing Patrol, 020 3151 1750. www.swingpatrol.co.uk

Space East, Arch 439, Cranmer Road: www.thespaceast.com. Swing Patrol

Woodgrange Baptist church, Woodgrange Road. Parish nurse 07947 029556, or minister 020 8555 9880



The Struggle for Wanstead Flats 1946-47

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Local historian, Mark Gorman (Twitter: @Flatshistorian), celebrates a key date, and significant anniversary in the fight to keep Wanstead Flats the open space so many of us enjoy today.

Seventy years ago this month saw the climax of a local struggle with a very contemporary theme. On one side developers citing a desperate housing shortage, and planning the development of a large estate, on the other local campaigners, determined to defend their open spaces. But in this case the developers were local councils, and their opponents were the people of east London. The centre of the struggle was Wanstead Flats.

This was 1946, where wartime bombing raids had caused large-scale destruction across east London. The docks and industrial areas had been primary targets, and in West Ham alone 14,000 houses had been destroyed, worsening a pre-war housing crisis. Building had been almost at a standstill throughout the war, and many old and worn-out slums remained from before the war. 


Blitz damage in Eric Road, Forest Gate, 1940

Up to 1939 the open spaces of the Flats had drawn large numbers of East Enders annually, for fairs, circuses, football and other sports, providing the open space that they lacked near their own homes. During the war the Flats were pressed into use for military purposes. Anti-aircraft batteries and prisoner of war camps had been located there, and by 1945 large areas were covered by rusting barbed wire, bomb and rocket craters, the remains of gun emplacements and buildings. 

Much of the Flats had been dug up for allotments, or churned up by vehicles and military boots. In addition the local boroughs of East Ham and West Ham had claimed sections of the Flats for temporary “prefab” housing.

Meanwhile the British population had increased by over one million during the war, and this was followed by the post-war baby boom. The need for housing was immense; in January 1945 the government estimated 1,250,000 new houses were required.
  
Housing was the key issue of the July 1945 General Election. The Archbishop of York said he “could not imagine anything …more likely to cause bitterness among the men in the Services than to find when they came back that there was no possibility of the home to which they had looked forward so keenly”.

In the General Election campaign the Labour party promised 5 million houses in the shortest possible time, but after Labour’s election landslide the queues for homes seemed only to be getting longer.

This was the background against which in 1946 the County Borough of West Ham proposed to acquire a large tract of Wanstead Flats by Compulsory Purchase Order, to re-house local residents made homeless by wartime bombing. On the face of it, West Ham had a strong case for seeking to build housing on the Flats. 

It was expected that as evacuees returned, together with demobbed service personnel, housing pressures would reappear. West Ham Council was determined to provide adequate housing for the post-war population, and the open land of Epping Forest next door to boroughs which claimed serious housing shortages was an obvious target for development.

Despite the first warning voices raised against the potential damage to open spaces if councils started requisitioning land for housing, an editorial in the Stratford Express declared “as for ‘borrowing’ part for temporary houses pending the construction of permanent dwellings, there is far more to be said for than against the plan”. Bombed out residents “deserve all the consideration that can be shown them”.

However by early 1946 West Ham’s plans were viewed with increasing concern. The Walthamstow Guardian published a letter stating “that once temporary houses are erected on Wanstead Flats, the land will be lost to the public forever”. 


West Ham Council prefabs
 on Wanstead Flats c.1944

Longer term plans for development of the Flats also began to emerge. East Ham Council introduced a proposal to build two “modern” (senior) schools and a technical college at the eastern end. Then in April 1946 West Ham applied for 163 acres of the Flats to house up to 7,400 people. The new plans would mean that much of the central area would be covered with houses and shops.

West Ham Corporation received strong support from the newly-elected Labour Government, which was determined not to repeat the failure to provide decent housing after the end of the First World War. The Government even considered land nationalisation to prevent private landlords blocking housing development. 

There was a demand for action, and the Minister in charge of the housing programme, Aneurin Bevan, declared that landowners’ interests must be secondary to “the housing needs of the nation”. Referring to the specific case of Wanstead Flats Bevan declared “I regret very much that we have had to do it, but the people of East Ham must have shelter…The Commoners of Epping Forest must surrender to the overwhelming needs of the people of East Ham”.

Bevan’s own sympathies were made even clearer when he added the “property owner, like the vulture, cannot desert the carrion…and insists on hanging on to the land”. In a radical policy departure, the government therefore proposed to give responsibility for housing to local authorities, who would become the driving force in the housing market. 


Campaign leaflet published by the
Wanstead Flats Defence Committee. 

However, the argument was far from over as far as local people were concerned. As the plans became known through the local press alarm grew; a letter to the Stratford Express expressed a characteristic viewpoint in declaring that Wanstead Flats was not being taken from a wealthy landowner ”but from the working man and his children”.  This was echoed by another describing Wanstead Flats as “a recreation ground of incalculable value to the people, particularly the youth of thickly populated districts of East London”.

A group of residents of Park Ward, on the Lakehouse and Aldersbrook Estates north of Wanstead Flats, became the core of the opposition. An organisation already existed on the estate, the Park Residents’ Society, which had begun life in 1945 as the War Damage Organisation, to help local people whose homes had been damaged by bombing.
  
Led by a hardworking secretary, Stanley Reed, a West Ham schoolteacher, a Defence Committee was formed, which launched a petition and held public meetings.  A Defence Committee was formed, which launched a petition and held public meetings, organised by its hard working secretary, Stanley Reed, a West Ham school teacher. Reed, also a keen film maker (in 1948 he made the excellent Neighbourhood 15, about the rebuilding of West Ham), was later to go to the British Film Insititute, becoming its Director in 1964.  There, he helped kick-start the careers of the likes of Tony Richardson, Karel Reisz, Jack Gold and Kevin Brownlow.

The Committee brought together local resistance, urging opposition in particular from the residents of both East and West Ham, since Stanley Reed correctly foresaw that “objections from Wanstead were certain to be represented by the West Ham politicos who initiated the scheme as arising from snobbish fears among the Wanstead well-to-do of working class penetration into their preserves”.


Stanley Reed, later in life, after
 he had become Director of
The British Film Institute

As the furore grew the debate became increasingly bitter.  A public meeting convened in Leyton by the Defence Committee drew 250 people in July 1946. Leah Manning, MP for Epping, told the meeting that, if all legal means failed, “we have pickets and bands of people to take up positions on the Flats and prevent the first step to build. I am prepared to spend as many nights as you like on the Flats”.

Leah Manning’s involvement in the protest campaign was particularly significant; as Epping’s first Labour MP, she might have been expected to be in favour of the building proposal. Indeed, in the following year she worked equally hard for housing development in Harlow New Town in face of a local protest campaign. In her autobiography she wrote “…at that time, the need for housing accommodation was desperate and urgent. The bombed-out in London were living in conditions of unparalleled squalor and over-crowding…”, and this she felt should override the need to preserve “the natural beauty of village country life”.

At another protest meeting a local Councillor raised an issue central to the protestors’ case when he said that powers were being claimed which infringed on public rights. If they were able to build on one part of Epping Forest it would be the beginning of the end for the whole forest. “Therefore”, he said “they were approaching the methods which Hitler adopted when he used the law to carry out his schemes, and when the law did not fit he made it fit”.

This was strong stuff; West Ham Council’s response was equally robust. The Chairman of West Ham’s Housing Committee wrote an open letter to the Stratford asking protestors to “look at the problem from the point of view of the thousands of homeless or badly housed men, women and children” for whom the scheme offered the “only practical prospect” of housing in the next two-three years.  To these people, she said, “the ‘Hands off the Flats party’ might appear as indifferent to their needs”.

Nor was the general public unanimously opposed to the scheme. A writer to the Stratford Express said that the Flats were “an eyesore”. Servicemen who had fought through the war deserved homes of their own, “not… to live with relatives”. Another correspondent to the Walthamstow Guardian wrote “blocks of luxury flats, trolley bus routes, public lavatories, riding school tracks, all add to the ‘amenities’, but…dwellings for the labouring class of East Ham or West Ham apparently cannot be allowed even under the sacredness of socialism”.

However the general feeling locally was strongly against the proposals. Even other local boroughs, whose support for a major housing scheme might have been expected, were highly critical of their neighbours’ action. The Leyton Town Clerk commented sarcastically “if West Ham want to build houses they might consider using a park of their own”. 


Cartoon in a local paper on the housing plans. 

By the summer of 1946 the controversy was at its height. The story made the national press, becoming a test case for the preservation of open spaces against housing needs, the Scotsman among others reporting support for the protest campaign from all over the country. As the Stratford Express put it – “There can be no compromise…the question is simple; is the …need for more housing so acute that such an irrevocable step has to be taken?”

A public inquiry was ordered by the Minister for Town and Country Planning, to hear West Ham Council’s application for a compulsory purchase order. Apart from the petition with 60,000 signatures presented by Leah Manning to parliament, the Council received 379 formal objections to their proposal. A formidable array of groups opposed the application, not only the City Corporation but also including Wanstead and Woodford Borough Council, the Commons, Open Spaces and Footpaths Preservation Society, the National Playing Fields Association, and Ilford Trades Council.  


The Inquiry got national coverage:
report from 
The Scotsman
December 1946

The inquiry opened on 3rd December 1946. Amidst catcalls and shouts the inquiry heard West Ham’s Town Clerk declaring this was a battle of “the haves and the have-nots”; he bitterly accused the protestors of prejudices against people from West Ham coming to live near them. West Ham Council knew that the scheme would be opposed, he said, “because the land was an open space and they knew the type of English mind which said that because a thing had been used for years for a certain purpose it was wrong to change it.”

West Ham acknowledged its falling population, but claimed that 80,000 people needed re-housing. Citing people in urgent need the Town Clerk went on to declare that Wanstead Flats was a large “flattish, bleakish and unattractive open space”. This statement brought more shouts of protest from the audience, which grew when he went on that “only a lunatic” would travel from the surrounding areas to play football on the Flats.

Objectors pointed out that West Ham’s plans were at odds with the government’s own Greater London Plan, which emphasised keeping as much open space as possible. In support of this evidence the tireless Stanley Reed, who had been given unpaid leave of absence by his employers – none other than West Ham Corporation - to attend the inquiry, presented the petition of 60,000 names.

The most effective testimony was, according to Stanley Reed, from a bus driver who “told a graphic tale of his dismal progress through Hackney, Homerton and Leyton to the point at which the houses ended and he and his bus emerged into the light and air of Wanstead Flats, with their trees, grass and grazing cattle: Sam Weller himself could not have done better”.


Leah Manning, Harlow’s Labour MP,
 threatened to lie down
 in front of the bulldozers

The Inspector duly reported back to the Minister for Town and Country Planning, whose verdict was given in April 1947, rejecting the application for housing. However the Ministry did not accept that Wanstead Flats was protected from compulsory purchase for building.  Acknowledging West Ham’s “very urgent housing problem” the Ministry stated that the Epping Forest Act “does not exempt this land from compulsory purchase”; the rationale for rejection was that shortage of labour and materials meant that West Ham would be limited to building on the land it already had. 

He continued, “it is most undesirable to permit building on the Wanstead Flats…it is not necessary to contemplate sacrifice of some of this open space for housing…”

Instead the Ministry proposed to make land available to West Ham in the outer country ring or beyond, where new towns were being started, under the Greater London Plan, which provided a blueprint for comprehensive redevelopment of the whole London area.  Indeed the Minister borrowed a key concept of the Plan in his judgment, talking of the Flats as “part of a well-established wedge of public open space extending into the densely built-up area of London”. 

The Council declared itself without the means to appeal, saying it would “loyally accept the decision”, and at once set about pressing the Minister to help them find alternative building land.

There were merits on both sides of the argument. A large number of east Londoners were in dire need of rehousing, and this was a priority both by the Government and wider public. However, it was equally clear that the Flats were for many east Londoners precious open land, especially for those for whom it was their only green space. Despite West Ham Council’s accusation that the campaign against the scheme was run by well-to-do middle classes against housing for workers, many protestors were from the very people the Council claimed to be helping. 

It was also realised that the outcome of the battle for the Flats would have far wider implications, for if housing needs were seen to take priority over open space on the Flats, other open land in or near areas of scarce housing would be vulnerable. An old story with very modern echoes.

Forest Gate: scene of Rock Against Racism's first gig

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We have just passed the 40th anniversary of the establishment of Rock Against Racism, and its first gig at the Princess Alice pub, on Romford/Woodgrange Roads.


Princess Alice - venue of first
ever Rock Against Racism gig
A recently published book: Reminiscences of RAR - Rocking against racism 1976 - 1982 tells the tale and  celebrates the remarkable story of the organisation that so successfully fused politics with popular culture and helped mobilise youth against the rising tide of racism in Britain, at the time.

The book features over 60 sets of personal recollections from people and the roles they played within the organisation. We rely on, and are incredibly grateful for,  a small number of these for what follows - an account of yet another important part Forest Gate has played within the history of popular music and modern political culture  within the UK (see footnote for details of the book).


The cover of Reminiscences
 of RAR - Buy it!

Context


Racism was on the rise in Britain in the mid 1970's. The National Front vote was increasing and their thugs tried to terrorise Black and Asian communities by provocatively marching through them, protected by the police, as they chanted threatening, intimidating and racist abuse at their targets of hate.

There was resistance from left groups, and brutality and fights were not uncommon. A number of Asian and  demonstrators/defenders were badly injured, and some killed in protecting Black and Asian communities and their rights to a peaceful life in their chosen town and country of settlement.

Then, in the summer of 1976 at a gig in Birmingham, a drunken Eric Clapton - dubbed by many at the time as "God" because of his guitar supremity - roamed about the stage, calling for Black and Asian immigrants to "Go home", in extremely racist terms. He also proclaimed that "Enoch was right"  (reference to Tory politician Enoch Powell who in 1968 had said that unless the "tide of immigration" was halted Britain would be drowned in "rivers of blood" ).

Clapton had recently revived his flagging career  with an enormous hit with Bob Marley's Who shot the sheriff, which to Marley was a revolutionary song.

Ironically, Clapton owed almost all of his fame to his reworking of Black music - Blues, some Rhythm 'n Blues and Reggae.


Roger Huddle and Red Saunders,
 at the book launch in Conway Hall
He was not alone among rock idols in expressing such appalling sentiments. David Bowie on another occasion - probably drug-fuelled - strutted around Heathrow airport in Nazi dress, and later proclaimed an admiration for fascism and Adolph Hitler -  sentiments he quickly later repudiated.

Appalled at this turn of events, a small number of Socialist Worker Party activists wrote to all the music and left press condemning the racism of some of pop culture's heroes.  The PS to the letter concluded: "Who shot the sheriff, Eric? It sure as hell wasn't you"

The results were remarkable, as large numbers of shocked pop music aficionados joined forces with political activists, committed to a better future, and formed: Rock Against Racism.

This is the story of its opening  Princess Alice gig, through the words of some of them.

Contributors

The extracts from the book, reproduced below, are from the following key people:

Roger Huddle: one of the three most influential early figures in RAR. He was a print worker and is today one of the two editors of the book.


Red (left) and Roger,
in Hackney in 1980
Red Saunders: the author of the letter to the music and Left press, following the Clapton outrage that proved to be the catalyst that lead to the establishment of RAR. The other co-editor of the book.

Steve Cedar: a student activist from the North East London Polytechnic (in Stratford), in the SWP at the time.

Carol Grimes: the headline act at the Princess Alice gig. Her first band was  The Race, a Blues and Folk based band, played mainly in London. She is still singing, writing and performing.

Bob Light: lived in Plaistow at the time and worked in the Royal Docks - which he described as a "war zone", because of a number or pro-Enoch Powell demonstrations and racists sentiments displayed.

The Princess Alice tale


Roger Huddle
We held the first RAR gig at the Princess Alice in East London on 12 November 1976, with Carol Grimes and the London Boogie Band... It was very important that we pitched our propaganda with a very high visual language. Dave King, a brilliant designer, who Red  knew through the Sunday Times colour magazine was asked to design a logo and the RAR star was born. Later he also designed the Anti Nazi League (ANL) arrow.


A near-contemporary
 photo of Carol Grimes
 the headline act
 of the first RAR gig
 at the Alice
Red Saunders
The first gig we did was with Carol Grimes. She was pub rock. In fact she was benefit rock. She did more benefits than anyone I knew. She'd say she was a Blues singer.
 Roger Huddle said we need to do gigs in east London, where the NF were. So we booked the Princess Alice pub in Forest Gate. We'd organised things before, so we weren't frightened. We got some socialists from the dockers' union to do the security. I remember putting up the banner onstage. The banners came from the other side of our sixties background - Agitation.
We loved artists from Alexander Rocdchenko and Andy Warhol.
So, the gig was a success, and it snowballed quickly.

Steve Cedar
The Princess Alice, an unremarkable pub in Forest Gate, E7, an unremarkable district of East London, was the venue for the first Rock Against Racism concert, organised by 3 or 4 unremarkable lefties from the area, myself included, perhaps in terms of musical tastes, the most unremarkable of all.

Steve Cedar - today
I fucking hated racism in all its forms, and even I, whose only social activity at the time was selling papers and going to the pub, had heard of Eric Clapton's disgusting comments about foreigners touching his wife and David Bowie's irresponsible antics at London Airport, dressed in Nazi gear and seig-heiling from a limousine. He, at least had the dignity to admit that he was being a tosser at the time. ...
So, I was very proud to be part of the organisation of the first ever RAR concert in that pub. To be honest, I don't remember very much about the concert. I remember the rubbish fighting and the rubbish sound system, but the reggae band was good and Carol Grimes topped the bill and sang some great classic rock.
I spent most of the time with a pint in my hand and an eye on the cash till, and reckon about 200 people came to the event, a great success, seeing as the posters advertising it were hand printed on a stencilling machine in our living room in Plaistow, as everything was in those days, from demos to public meetings.

Cover of the first edition of
 TempoRARy Hoarding,
 the magazine of the movement

We also made a heavy profit with more than enough to pay for the drinks we bought for the bands (cans of light ale and cheap whiskey, I remember it very clearly) and that's where my memory becomes sharper.
Every story of success has its downside. After the concert we were tidying up and the landlord came upstairs to check on everything, when he saw the cans of beer and empty whiskey bottles and went totally apeshit. He wanted to break my head open with one of the empty bottles and take all our profits for "corkage", a new word for me then, which meant the difference  in his earnings due to the gift to the musicians. I pleaded total ignorance and made sure we got well behind Bob Light and Pete Goodwin, two of the other organisers at the great event.
We calmed him down, eventually, by me accepting a lifetime ban from the Princess Alice and appealing to his Irish origins in search for solidarity with a movement that was against racism in the British Empire, but I think the lifetime ban clinched it. So, I walked the mile home clanking with change in a metal cashbox, feeling proud to have launched my showbiz career for a worthy cause. ...

I think the RAR movement opened up politics and political action to hundreds of thousands of young people who would not have been involved through the traditional politics of the left.

Carol Grimes: What follows are extracts from a Black Echoes and London Jazz News interview with Carol Grimes, the week after the Princess Alice gig.


Carol Grimes, today
Carol Grimes and the Boogie Band once again delivered a rocking set to a delighted crowd who had turned up and put their money where other put their mouths. A tight hard working seven-piece band who enjoy a good blowing, funky evening, as much as the audience, they should be seen by more people, especially as they are fronted by one of the best female blues/soul singers the country has yet produced.
The repertoire was mostly songs from her Memphis album, recorded with the Memphis Horns, and she sounded good, giving the Frederick Knight compositions a good shakedown. ...
The event is worth noting as well. Instigated to set up a fund to combat racism (from whatever source), it is hoped to make it a regular event, although not necessarily in the same venue (they have plans for Ackham Hall and the Roundhouse). It is hoped also to get the services of Soul and Reggae bands, as well as rock musicians, and the success of the venture will eventually be measured by the ratio of black and white and vice versa in the audiences, one of the worthwhile grass roots objectives this could achieve.
At this gig it was predominantly white, but that was due to the lack of advertising (Black Echoes?). I'm not sure of the role that politics takes but I'm sure that the Socialist Workers' who got this thing on, will realise that racial harmony is far more important than any political party.
The venture deserves support from anybody who cares, as the World is in need of Love today - Fred Rath
Bob Light
The very first RAR gig ever - held in the Princess Alice, Forest Gate. Compared to the achievements of the epic carnivals, this was an almost absurdly small initiative. I think it is fair to say that even the imaginations of Roger and Red had not yet grasped what RAR would achieve.


The Clash at the huge RAR gig,
 in Victoria Park, April 1978
But for most of us who lived in Newham (and I lived about a mile from the Alice) even  small scale anti-racist events threw up the problem of security. The NF considered the East End as their 'patch', and the BM (ed: British Movement) held their weekly covens at a different pub a couple of hundred yards up the road. At least one of the local pubs was a no-go area for anyone with more than a millimetre of hair (ed: Earl of Essex?).
I can't recall the exact reason was made to have the first RAR gig in an unlikely and fairly inaccessible place like Forest Gate. Hackney, Camden, even Central London would have all seemed more obvious choices. But looking back, I would guess that it was Forest Gate precisely because the Nazis thought it was their own little Reich. We were taking the fight to the belly of the Beast.
I can recall going to book the pub. The Alice was not one of the regular pubs we used for meetings - it was generally too big and a bit expensive. On top of that one of the none-too-imaginative tactics the Nazis regularly used was to frighten off a pub landlord either with a threatening phone call or a bomb threat.
So, we needed to forewarn the publican the gig might be a bit 'warm', to give us some guarantee that it wouldn't be cancelled. In the event, despite our fears, it turned out the landlord was an Irish Republican who told us that as long as there was no fighting actually inside his two bars, he didn't give a fuck about the Nazis. Which seemed fair enough.


Demonstrators/gig attendees en route
 from Trafalgar Square to Victoria Park, April 1978
We knew we could promise that because one big advantage the Alice had over other venues was above the function room was above the pub approached by a wide staircase with its own door to the street.
I cannot remember a thing about the publicity or anything else about the actual organisation of the gig itself. But I do remember only too well that we knew the gig would be in serious need of protection. Our plan wasn't exactly D-Day - we knew if the bad guys came we had to stop them on the stairs. If they got into the room, it would be bloody chaos, the police would be called and London's Finest would take the chance to beat up and arrest some Lefties, while letting their Fascist soul mates get away to their cars.
So, on the night, we had women and men placed on all four corners of the junction with the Alice stood on to warn us if the Nazi hordes were coming, and we had a reception committee waiting for them at the top of the stairs. Just in case that proved inadequate, we had six pick axe handles in a cricket bag and several cans of pepper spray that I had bought at a motorway service station in France.
In the event, the Nazis bottled it (I'm pleased to say they usually did) but for me the evening developed a rhythm that would become all-too-familiar in the RAR days. You could summarise our evening under the headings Tension, Apprehension and Frustration.
The Tension was driven by fear - the fear that the Nazis would coming streaming up the stairs, fear that I would get seriously hurt, fear that I would let my fear get the better of me. But as the minutes and hours passed that turned to Tension - we knew we had to keep our guard, we knew we had to keep our guard, we knew we had to keep everyone on their toes, we knew we couldn't afford to drink, we knew we couldn't relax, we knew we couldn't enjoy the gig.
Then, as the gig inside was turning into a glorious celebration of anti-racist fun, courtesy of Carol Grimes and her band came frustration. Frustration that we had not been able to enjoy the evening and even more frustration that we had not been able to give the Nazis the fucking good hiding they certainly would have got.

What came next for RAR

- courtesy of Mike Symonds, who compiled a far more comprehensive time-line of RAR's history for the book.


The logo that supported a
political/cultural movement
- May 1977, the National Front and National Party attract a large following in local elections in London, Leicester and Blackburn.

- November 1977, launch of the Anti-Nazi League.

- April 1978, massive RAR/ANL festival in Victoria Park, when 80,000 attendees marched from Trafalgar Square to Vicky Park, in support of threatened East End communities, to see X-Ray Spex , The Tom Robinson Band and The Clash. A life and political changing moment for many there.

- June 1978, Fascist gangs run amok down Brick Lane, to terrorise the local Asian community (so very reminiscent to Battle of  Cable Street, almost 40 years previously).

- September 1978, second London RAR festival, in Brockwell Park.  35,000 see Aswad, Sham 69, Misty in Roots, Elvis Costello - among others.

- The summer of 1979, the police deploy multiple thousands of officers to defend pitifully small National Front marches in a number of British cities (echoes of Cable Street, again).

- July 1980, 4 racists stab Atab Beg to death in East Ham High Street. This was followed by a number of racist attacks on pupils and teachers at Plashet school. These events prompted the foundation of the Newham Youth Movement, spearheaded by militant local Asian youth (remember, Unmesh Desai?).

- April 1981, riots in Brixton, followed later that summer by riots in Liverpool, Birmingham and Manchester. Less serious disturbances also broke out in Bedford, Bristol, Edinburgh, Gloucester, Leeds, Leicester, Wolverhampton and elsewhere.

The book and its launch

A very successful launch event was held for the book, at Holborn's Conway Hall on 5 December - organised, almost inevitably by Roger Huddle and Red Saunders. We were all looking a bit greyer than in those heady days, but a good time was had by all. Roger and Red have lost none of their organisational skills.


The ever-fresh Tom Robinson,
 at the book launch
The event was a mixture of reminiscences and music, notably featuring Tom Robinson - in as fine and angry a voice as ever. A good night - down memory lane. As many of the speakers noted, the most appalling racism of those days is thankfully behind us, but the threat of racism is ever-present, as much of the post Brexit mood has shown.

Finally - BUY THE BOOK! It's a great read for those who remember those days and even more so for those who want to find out more about an important part of our recent political/cultural heritage.

Footnotes:

1. Reminiscences of RAR - Rocking against Racism, 1976 - 1982, published by Redwords, £15. ISBN 978-1910-885-36-9. We are grateful to the publishers, editors and contributors for enabling us to compile this blog.  We highly recommend the book to all interested in RAR, and modern political culture.

2.A second book - this time mainly of photographs has recently been published on RAR, which is highly recommended: Syd Shelton: Rock Against Racism, published by Autograph, £20.

3. Were you at the Princess Alice gig? Do you have any mementos of either it or the whole Rock Against Racism movement, if so, a website is being established that would love to hear from you: www.rockagainstracism.uk. It is under construction, but contact gregory.ruth@gmail.com for details.

Forest Gate Industrial school - The 1890 inquest and background to its 1906 closure

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We have written previously about one of the earliest significant institutions to built in Forest Gate: the Industrial School, on Forest Lane. See here for a general history of the school, here for an account of the devastating fire that suffocated 26 boys under the age of 12 on New Year's day, 1890, and here for an account of conditions in the school on Christmas Day, 1897.

This post provides more detail on two key aspects of its history: a brief account and sketch of the early stages of the inquest into the 1890 fire, and a detailed account of the circumstances resulting in its closure - largely through the efforts of some very effective Guardians, who themselves had experienced Industrial School life, and wanted better for future generations.


Site of the former Forest Gate
Industrial School, Forest Lane
The institution was established on former Samuel Gurney land in the mid 1850's, as a school for the children of paupers kept in the Whitechapel workhouse. It later also took in children from Hackney and Poplar workhouses; and at its peak accommodated 600 children, as boarders.

It closed in 1906, became an extension of the Poplar workhouse for a few years, then a general infirmary and ended its public service life as Forest Gate Maternity hospital, from 1930 - 1986.  It is now the Gladys Dimson housing development.

The inquest


We have provided harrowing and graphic contemporary accounts of the 1890 fire in previous posts - see above.


Artist impression of fire at the school, January 1890

We have recently come across a copy of The Graphic, an illustrated weekly newspaper, dated 11 January 1890 offering more details to our understanding of the inquest of the fire - complete with a sketch composed at it.

The Graphic - 11 Jan 1890 'The disastrous
 fire at Forest Gate district school,
 the relatives of the victims at the inquest'
Below is the coverage the paper gave to the inquest, of particular interest is the section that reads:


It seems clear that an over-heated stove pipe was the origin of the mischief. The tragedy is rendered more affecting by the fact that the children, who in such an institution unavoidably lead such monotonous lives, had on the 31st been taken to see the pantomime at the Stratford Theatre, and were looking forward to New Year's Day as an occasion of great festivity.
Our sketch represents the scene at the inquest, which opened on January 2nd by Mr CC Lewis, Coroner of South Essex, in one of the girls' school rooms at the institution. Among the persons present, besides the officials connected with the schools, were twenty or thirty relatives of deceased children.
The principal witness examined on the first day was Mr Charles Duncan, the superintendent of the institution. He endeavoured to put out the flames with a "Fire Queen" (a chemical extinguisher), and partially succeeded. Indeed to his courage and promptitude the preservation of the other parts of the building is due, but he was eventually driven back and almost suffocated by the dense smoke.

Excerpt from The Graphic, 11 Jan 1890

Circumstances and context around its closure

The school survived the fire and continued in service for a further decade and a half.

A good understanding of the reasons for its closure, and relocation to Hutton, Essex, can be gleaned from the memoirs of the chairman of the Board of Guardians at the time of its closure - Will Crooks (From Workhouse to Westminster - the life story of Will Crooks MP, by George Haw 1907).

Crooks was born into poverty in Poplar in 1852. His father was disabled (or "a cripple" as the biography states in the language of the time), unable to work, following an industrial accident and forced onto parish relief.


The family of eight were paid two or three shillings a week (10p - 15p) outdoor relief, by the time Will was eight years old (1860), which barely kept them from starvation. The Poplar Board of Guardians then determined that the family should be sent to the workhouse, down by the Millwall docks for a period.

According to Haw: 
The lad was ravenously hungry all the time he spent in the workhouse. He often felt at times as though he could eat leather; yet every morning when the "skilly" (ed: a very watery porridge/gruel) was served for breakfast, he could not touch it.
For two or three weeks the Crooks children were kept in the workhouse before being taken away in an omnibus with other boys to the Poor Law school at Sutton. Then came the most agonising experience of all to Will. They parted him from his younger brother.
In the great hall of the school he would strain his eyes, hoping to get a glimpse of the lone little fellow among the other lads, but he never set eyes on him again until the afternoon, when they went home together."
The Crooks family, about the time they
 were sent to the workhouse.  Young
 Will is second from the right,
leaning on his father's shoulder
Every day I spent in that school is burned on my soul", he has often declared since.
It was from this house that he saw a bread riot in the winter of 1860, when he got the first of many impressions he was to receive of what a winter of bad trade means to a district of casual labour like Poplar."
Sights like these of his childhood, with the shuddering memories of his own dark days in the workhouse school made him register a vow, little chap though he was at the time, that when he grew up to be a man he would do all he could to make better and brighter the lot of the inmates, especially that of the boys and girls.
This traumatic experience and lasting memory was later to have a profound effect on the future of the Forest Gate Industrial school, on Forest Lane.

Crook's career projectory was dramatic, given his humble origins. As a dock worker, he was a prominent figure in the famous 1889 London Dock Strike (known for its demand to get "The Dockers' Tanner" - an hourly rate of 2.5d per hour).


Crooks, on the way up the social
 scale - from workhouse, to Parliament

In the days before the establishment of the Labour Party, Crooks was elected, under the Progressive banner, as a member of the then London County Council, in 1892.

Within three years, he was elected the first working class member of the Poplar Board of Guardians, where he was soon joined by fellow local progressive politician, George Lansbury. Crooks was appointed chairman of the Guardians in 1897 and set upon a series of dramatic reforms.

He dwelt on his own memorable experiences as a workhouse child to introduce significant changes in the Poplar Union, and at the Forest Gate Industrial school, in particular.

We draw heavily on the Haw biography to explain what Crooks did to change conditions at the Forest Gate - including abolishing uniforms and improving food - and how this eventually lead to its closure and transit to Hutton, in Essex.
The Guardian's school at Forest Gate lay four miles from the Union buildings in Poplar .. with five or six hundred children always under training in the school.
He helped banish all the suggested pauperism from the Forest Gate school. The children were educated and grew up, not like workhouse children, as before, but like the children of working class parents. With what result?
Marked out in their childhood as being "from the workhouse", they often bore the stamp all of their life and ended up as workhouse inmates in their manhood and womanhood.
Under the new system they were made to feel like ordinary working class children. They grew up like them, becoming ordinary working-men and working-women themselves; so the Poor Law knew them no longer.
If I cant appeal to your moral sense, let me appeal to your pocket", Crook once remarked in a Guildhall Poor Law Conference. "Surely it is far cheaper to be generous in training Poor Law children to take their place in life as useful citizens than it is to give the children a niggardly training and a branded career.
This latter way soon leads them to the workhouse again, to be kept out of the rates for the rest of their lives."
How far the principle was carried out at Forest  Gate may be judged from the (undated) report made by Mr Diggard, HM Inspector of Schools, after one visit.  Thus:
"There is very little (if any) of the institution's mark among the children ... Both boys and girls are in a highly satisfactory state, showing increased efficiency with increased intelligence on the part of the children ... They compare very favourably with the best elementary schools."
In all that related to games and healthful recreation Crooks agreed in giving the scholars the fullest facilities. The lads were encouraged to send their football and cricket teams to play other schools. The girls developed under drill and gymnastic training, and became proficient swimmers.
In fact, the scholars at Forest Gate began to count for something. They learned to trust each other and to rely upon themselves. They grew up with hope and courage. The learned to walk honourably before all men. In consequence thousands of them have emerged in the great working world outside, self-respecting men and women.
 I met Crooks looking elated one evening and he told me that he had just come from the Poor Law schools' swimming competition at Westminster Baths.
There were three trophies" he said "The first, the London Shield was for boys. Poplar (i.e. the Forest Gate school) won with 85 marks ... The second was the Portsmouth Shield.. our girls won that with 65 marks. The third was the Whitehall Shield, for the school as a whole with the highest number of marks also won. I feel as pleased as though I had done it myself.
The best administration in an out-of-date building is always hampered. Forest Gate belonged to the old order of Poor Law schools known as barrack buildings. Although the Guardians made the very best of the school, there structural defects that hindered the work seriously.
It was therefore decided to build cottage houses at Shenfield in Essex (the Hutton school), where special effort is being made to train girls as well as boys in rural pursuits in order to keep them out of the over-crowded cities.

This transfer took place in 1906, and lead to the closure of the Forest Lane establishment as a school and transformation to an annexe for the Poplar workhouse.
The new "extrvagently
 designed" school, at Shenfield

By this time, Crooks had become the first working class mayor of Poplar, in 1901, and elected as MP for Woolwich in 1903.


Will Crooks, MP for Woolwich

The improved conditions that Crooks and the other Guardians brought for workhouse children did not go unopposed. They were accused of extravagance and squandering public money - for providing decent food and living conditions at Hutton. Crooks, himself, as an MP, had to face a Parliamentary Committee in 1906 to explain these "extravagances".  He and the Guardians were largely exonerated.

He remained an MP for Woolwich until his death, on 5 June 1921. Unlike other early Labour MP's, he was a jingoistic supported of World War 1.

His legacy, however, will be more defined by the transformation of the lives of workhouse children - many from Forest Gate, that he enabled.  Also, for laying the foundations for the kind of radical defiance that his former colleagues on Poplar council exercised to get major changes to Poor Law funding, from almost the moment of his death, from 1922.


Will Crooks' tombstone,
Tower Hamlets cemetery


Godwin School ( boys ) log 1 - 1883 - 1984, the origins

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We have been given access to an invaluable document that offers a fascinating insight of 100 years of Forest Gate history - and many of the people who lived here - from a worm's eye view.

Godwin - 90 years after opening
It is the school log of Godwin School (boys department only, initially), from its inception in 1883 until the latter days of the last century. This is, effectively, a diary kept by the head - until 1995 a statutory obligation on the post holder.

We are deeply indebted to local resident, Karen Higgins, for transcribing the school log - a task undertaken as part of her history degree -  giving us such free access to its content and allowing an edited version of her work to be published on this website.

Our debt to the various heads of the school who meticulously maintained the log is enormous and our gratitude is extended to them.

The school was established as an early initiative by the recently established West Ham School Board (see here for details of early formal education in Forest Gate and the establishment of the School Board).

The school was opened in 1883 in temporary accommodation in nearby Essex Street, while the building in Godwin/Cranmer Road was being constructed.

For most of its life it was run as two separate schools - a boys and a girls - as was the case with many schools during the early years of state education. Evidence of this can still be found in the more modern entrance sign outside the school in Godwin Road (see photo).


1950's style entrance to the school, 
lettering showing clear distinction
between Girls (and infants) Department
 and Boys Department (sign no longer evident)
Unfortunately, only the Boys' Department records appear to have survived; but it presents a great picture of:

  • local life and death for the century 1883 - 1984
  • changes in educational standards and practice
  • the impact of national and international events on Forest Gate, and its young
  • local pleasures and pastimes
We believe the content is intriguing and detailed enough to spread (with a little editorial comment - italicised in brackets - photographs and newspaper extracts) over a number of chapters. We will alternate the posting of these with other posts of Forest Gate interest, over the next few months.

The chapters are:

  • The nineteenth century origins (1883 - 1900)
  • Pre World War 1 Godwin school and Forest Gate
  • The impact of WW1 of Forest Gate and the school
  • Between the wars (1919 -1939)
  • WW2 and its aftermath for Godwin and Forest Gate
  • Into the modern era (1950 - 1984)
This first post, dealing with the school's origins, highlights:

  • the early cultural development of the school (e.g. introduction of homework and library);
  • the state of the accommodation, and the rapid growth of the school population;
  • the judgments of early schools inspections, by HMIs;
  • local celebrations, entertainments and events and their impact on the school and its attendances;
  • some pretty brutal corporal punishment - one member of staff seems to have been dismissed for it, although perhaps corporal punishment was not as commonplace at Godwin as popular mythology would have it;
  • attempts to move away from rote learning by the introduction of more stimulating teaching methods;
  • impacts of pupil illnesses on absences;
  • the almost mono-cultural nature of the school's roll.
Some of the language in this post may seem offensive to the modern reader.

We have not flinched from using it, as we believe it provides an accurate view of how, for example disabled, Jewish and Black people were viewed at the time; any attempt to "refine" the language used in the school log would diminish the impact of descriptions of prejudice faced by such minority groups of people at the time.

The Log

1 Oct 1883 - The school was opened without ceremony this morning at the Century Hall, Essex Street. The staff consisted: Henry Herbert - headmaster (certified teacher, second class) (ed: the 1881 census showed Henry Hubert to be aged 23 and living at 38 Godwin Road - now demolished - so when the school opened he would only have been in his mid twenties. This is similar to Desmond and Francis' sister - see here, who was also a West Ham Board school head in her twenties. Perhaps the School  Board was a far-sighted employer - or possibly just desperate. The area certainly seems to have offered good opportunities to young teachers.), Albert King (certified assistant), Charles Aspinall (ex pupil teacher) and James Morrell (monitor). (It is interesting to note that this new school opening did not merit a line of copy in only the local paper, the Stratford Express, as far as we have been able to see).

2 Oct 1883 Homework has been commenced in all classes and the parents appear very willing to co-operate with the master in this matter.

24 Mar 1884 To encourage regular attendance and good work, the master offered a prize to each class for the boy obtaining the highest number of marks before Easter.

1 Apr 1884 The attendance today has been greatly affected by the consecration of Saint Saviour's church. Many of the boys were kept at home.


St Saviour's church, Macdonald Road (1975).
 The consecration of this church 90 years
 before the photo taken greatly affected
attendance at the school
21 Apr 1884 The school reassembled this afternoon. 143 boys were present.

30 June 1884 The attendance today has not been good. Several boys are ill and others are away in the country with their parents (ed: for fruit picking or hop trailing in Kent? -  a popular "holiday" for many East Enders in the second half of the nineteenth century).



Hop trailing in Kent - along with hop
 and fruit picking a little later in the
 year - traditional "holidays"
for many East London families.
15 Oct 1884 The master asked the boys in the upper standards to assist him in forming a library. The idea was taken up with great earnestness.

5 Nov 1884 The master gave each of the teachers a syllabus for the next five weeks. The usual fifth of November excitement has lowered the numbers considerably today.

13 Dec 1884 HMI report: The accommodation here is very poor. The progress made in this department (ed: boys), in the face of many difficulties, may, I consider, be fairly characterised as excellent.

13 Apr 1885 Godwin Road school. These schools were opened this morning at nine o'clock by the chairman of the School Board, W Coleman. ... The boys who formed the school in Essex Street were then drafted into the classrooms and commenced their work under the direction of the assistant teacher. (It is interesting to note that this new school opening did not merit a line of copy in only the local paper, the Stratford Express, as far as we have been able to see).

17 Apr 1885 316 boys are now on the roll. (ed: the size has more than doubled in a year, thanks to its move to the new location).

30 Apr 1885 The master examined the homework throughout the school. It will be seen once a week by the master, and all satisfactory books stamped. The boys are assembled on the lines in the playground and the state of boots, hands and faces looked into daily. This is producing good results.

3 Jul 1885 The master examined the homework throughout the school ... Many of the parents object to it being done.

10 Sept 1895 The attendance was good this morning, but owning to the visit of the Lord Mayor and Corporation to West Ham Park, it was greatly affected in the afternoon. Homework was excused.


Visit of Lord Mayor of London to West Ham
 Park greatly affected attendance at
 Godwin school. A testimony to both
 deference and the fact that such a visit
 should be seen as a "big event", in
 an era of simple public "entertainment"
23 Sept 1885 The master received a note from Mrs Wise, complaining that Mr Wood had struck her son. The master called the teacher's attention to this breach of regulation.

11 Nov 1885 This afternoon 80 boys were absent. The majority had permission from their parents to attend a circus.

29 Jan 1886 Mr Aspinall was absent from school this morning. He attended a party on the previous night and was unfit for his duties.

25 Jun 1886 The master took about 250 boys to the Industrial Exhibition at West Ham at the close of afternoon school.

11 Nov 1886 Mr Atkins called and complained that Mr Wood had pulled his boy's ear some fortnight ago. He further complained that he had boxed his ears today. The master cautioned the teacher to be more careful in his actions with the children.

23 Dec 1886 The school closed this afternoon for the Christmas vacation. The master gave each boy an orange on leaving.

31 Mar 1887 (ed:following further complaints of physical violence towards pupils) Mr Woods left today.

7 Sept 1887 Mr Boyle visited the school this morning. The scholars were photographed.

5 Dec 1887 At the close of the school this afternoon the master allowed the 1st and 2nd classes to remain behind to hear a description of the astronomical part of their geography. This was illustrated with a fine set of diagrams exhibited by means of the Magic Lantern. The boys were very attentive and a clearer idea of the different phenomena was imparted by this means than it is possible to convey by ordinary diagrams.

9 Feb 1888 Mr Shearman from the South Essex Band of Hope gave a short address to the older boys on alcohol and the human body. The master received a letter from Mr Larter asking the master to visit his little son, who is ill. The child having expressed a wish to see him.


Photo of children from Godwin
 school, dated July 1898
27 Jul 1888 The school was closed yesterday for an excursion to the Alexandra Palace (ed: "The People's Palace", opened originally in 1873, then again, after a fire in 1875, as a public recreation, education and entertainment centre in north London. This trip took taken place nine years before the opening of the Forest Gate - Tottenham Railway). The school closed today for the summer holidays.


Alexandra Palace, at the time
13 Oct 1889 Percy Randall has been absent eleven weeks with Chicken Pox and sickness and may require exceptional treatment. ... As an incentive for the boys to work neat and accurate papers, the best are stuck up in a prominent place in the school.

14 Jan 1890 HMI report: all three departments of this large school are in excellent condition.

21 Mar 1890 The attendance today has been greatly reduced by a circus in the neighbourhood. George Smith, Standard 7, has left to go on the Great Western Railway.

29 Sept 1890 Fred Cotton was admitted this morning. He has come from Germany and is not familiar with English. He is placed in 1st Standard. Alfred Cundell returned to school this morning. He is a very backward boy and the difficulty he finds with his work in Standard 4 causes him to play truant.

27 Nov 1890 The government examination begins today. The boys were examined by sample. 459 were present out of 469.

23 Apr 1891 The first class commenced this week to read from the 'School Newspaper', with a view to make the reading lessons more interesting and prepare for unseen tests.

25 Jun 1891 Mr Ashbridge, silversmith of Commercial Rd and Mile End writes asking the master to send him a lad.  He writes: "My apology must be that the two lads you have recommended are doing so well we are desirous of obtaining another lad from your school."

1 Sept 1891 School re-opens this morning. (ed, following 1891 Education Act, free education for all scholars takes place from today. Two years later the leaving age was raised to 11, and then 13).

11 Nov 1891 Bernard Biddle was found smoking on coming up the stairs. When spoken to, he was both insolent and insubordinate and the master has punished him. The lad has been several times to the truant school (ed: Fryant Truant school for boys opened in 1885 at Fyfield, near Chipping Ongar, in Essex. There was accommodation for upto 80 boys who spent time drilling and working in fields gardens and piggeries . In 1907 it closed, and opened as an Industrial School)and it is only by isolation that his influence can be kept from contaminating the other lads similarly returned and other boys inclined to truancy.

26 Jan 1892 HMI report: The tone and order are excellent. High and intelligent aim and systematic work characterise the school.

18 Mar 1892 (ed: this is one entry to illustrate several similar incidents, happening at approx 6 months intervals) Mr Barnes called this afternoon, to let the master know that his little boy had died in the morning from a fit which seized him on Wednesday. (ed:  four days later)..The master sent a wreath for the funeral of Cyril Barnes, as a mark of sympathy from the teachers and scholars at the school.

7 Jul 1892 With a view to keep the old boys together and bring some influence to bear upon them, an old boys football club has been formed, called 'Old Godwin'.

11 Nov 1892 A great many boys absent today. Sanger's Circus was the attraction. (ed: this was probably on the Flats. See advert - dated 1896 for Sanger's circus and "amphitheatre, and of "Lord" George Sanger a flamboyant showman of the late Victorian era, who was murdered by one of his disgruntled employees!).


Contemporary advert for Sanger's circus
 "and amphitheatre"

... and the showman: "Lord" George Sanger
17 Jan 1894 HMI report: The school fully maintains its high character for intelligence and accurate work. The tone and discipline are excellent.

12 Sept 1894 The numbers still high 506 were present this morning. (ed: having trebled in a decade).

10 Dec 1894 Sixteen boys have been sent to Upton Lane school this week to relieve the crowded state of the school.

24 Oct 1895 Mr Earle was allowed to leave at eleven , for the afternoon ... to play (ed: football) for London against Suffolk.

18 Dec 1895 Punished George Carpenter for writing disgusting language on his slate.

14 Feb 1896 S Barnard crept upstairs shortly after 2 o'clock and stole an overcoat.  (ed: three days later) ... The parent of the boy who lost his coat prosecuted the boy Barnard. He was remanded to Holloway for a week.

3 Nov 1896 New school at Whitehall Place opened (ed: this later to become Forest Gate Community school). Several boys living in this neighbourhood have gone to this school.

9 Nov 1896 A great number of boys are away to see the Lord Mayor's show.

26 Jan 1897 HMI report: The energy, thought and devotion given to the work, especially by the headmaster, deserves the greatest praise.

14 Feb 1897 Preliminary meeting of Old Boys was held here for the purpose of arranging social gathering of 'Old Boys'. It was a very pleasant matter to see how readily the idea was taken up. A strong committee was formed consisting of staff and 14 'Old Boys'.

18 Jun 1897 Boys assembled in girls' playground, sang some songs and concluded with the National Anthem, all 3 departments singing together. The school was closed for one week in commemoration of the Queen's Diamond Jubilee.


National celebrations for Victoria's Golden Jubilee

... and a contemporary portrait of the
 queen, commissioned for the jubilee
17 Oct 1898 Two of our old boys had unfortunately lost their lives on board the Niohegan, an Atlantic liner, which ran on the rocks off the Lizard on Friday night.

7 Jan 1899 HMI report. The school has done a good year's work ... the doing of some homework by the older boys is a good feature.

3 May 1899 This evening the choir that took part in the Stratford Music Festival (ed: This was founded by John Curwen - see here about his role, in Earlham Grove - in 1882). gaining second prize was entertained at tea. In the evening the parents of the boys were invited to a concert given by the choir. The whole passed off very pleasantly and both boys and parents were delighted.
John Spencer Curwen, sponsor of the
 Stratford Music Festival at this time

27 Jul 1899 An excursion with the All Saints Sunday School has greatly affected attendance today. 

The next episode of the Godwin story - 1900 - 1914 will be posted in a couple of weeks time.





















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